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  1.    #1  
    Hi there,

    I've just join the forum and I'm very impressed about the Treo 180NL pictures I've seen.

    I would like to try to do the same, but unfortunately all the links are broken, so I can't access the detailed pictures and the details of the process can't also be read.

    Can someone who knows someone that have tried to do it, let me know how can I access the info?

    Great thanks for all your help

  2. #2  
    What is a 180NL?
  3. #3  
    a 180 with the lid removed.

    nl=no lid.
    On the road to 5,000 posts
    Life is what happens between Firmware releases.
  4. #4  
    hmmm... not sure what happened to the NL thread.

    I removed most of the FlipLid some time ago. Here is the 180HFL (Half Flip Lid) thread...

    Since that post, I have fully removed the lid and retain full speaker functionality. Also, housed the 270 in a 180 body (can't stand the colour of the 270/300).

    Will post some pics soon.
    Last edited by nzmoko; 09/01/2003 at 08:36 AM.
  5.    #5  
    Great thanks nzmoko.

    I can't wait to get it

    I've also read a post you wrote about you bought a full Treo body in Crayton Electronics, but I can't find it.

    Do you think I will need it (a second treo body) or just using my treo body will be possible to modify it and get a good result?

    Great thanks for your help and pics
    Last edited by migueld2001; 09/01/2003 at 08:37 AM.
  6. #6  
    Hi Migueld2001,

    Here is a pic of my T270NL mkII.

    To answer your question, only 1 Treo body was needed (in this case a 180). Also, Crayton are not advertising 180 bodies anymore so I guess they are sold out...

    I did have a Nokia speaker in the mk1 version but I found the sound quality poor at max volume. The speaker unit in this version is from the original Treo. I had a few problems sourcing a mesh because steel ones were sucked onto the speaker's magnet. I ended up using an aluminium mesh from tap filter.

    Hopefully you can see the new colour - satin black (4 coats of car acrylic). To do a good job, a lot of work went into preparing the case for painting - completely stripped otherwise the new paint wouldn't adhere.

    The add-on mods were achieved using plastic and car body filler (mastic) which sets very hard and is easily worked. All parts are glued and screwed into place.

    The unit is very robust and I have no problem throwing it in a bag or my pocket.

    Unfortunately, I was unable to record the mod process because my digital camera was sick from one of my previous experiments...
    Attached Images Attached Images
  7. #7  
    WOW!! NZMOKO!!

    I never stumbled on that when you first posted it. That is awesome. Good work!
  8.    #8  
    Hi nzmoko,

    Your work is simply fantastic

    I would like to do the same (I have a treo 180G) but the problem is I don't think I will be able to do

    I would pay to get a modified body as you did, so you can create a company

    If you want, I could send you my treo and pay for the work, but as I imagine this is not your bussiness, do you think someone can help me to do it?

    Maythe a car mechanic can help me, but I'm not sure

    If you could give me more details on how did you perform your work I could try

    Thanks again
  9.    #9  
    BTW, I'm quite sure to create a front body (you know the body has front and back) with no lid would be a very good bussiness.

    The treo with this front, would be:

    - Smaller than Treo 600
    - Cheaper than buying a new treo

    The idea is create two different fronts, one for Treo 180G and another one for the keyboard models (Treo 180, Treo 270 and Treo 300) and sell it to treo users.

    I'm quite sure a lot of them would buy it (I would do it), because:

    - It solves the dead speaker problem
    - It makes a smaller device as it is now.
    - It makes we can have a smaller device as Treo 600 will be

    If someone who know how can be performed a front for treo (to have the model is quite ease, because you have one in your Treo) could study if there is a chance to create it, I'm quite sure it will be a "top seller"
  10. #10  
    Hi migueld2001,

    Glad you like it. It really does look like it was bought in a shop and apart from my friends who know I do this kind of thing, most people think it is a new kind of phone.

    I have a normal Treo 180 as well and I sometimes carry both just to see how they fit with my lifestyle. I can honestly say that I would never go back to a clamshell design - I think the fliplid was a very bad idea - not only from an engineering perspective (very poor) but from a form factor perspective as well (a very nice looking already big Treo ends up 100% bigger as soon as you open the lid - terrible).

    My new Treo is lighter and a lot thinner than a 600. It is only a little wider and is the same length. I love it

    After the preparation, the hardest part was making the add-ons strong because after the lid was cut off, the top assembly was very weak. This was achieved by mounting two pieces of plastic either side of the speaker. The plastic is screwed in place with four screws and also bonded with very good glue (not SuperGlue!). The plastic parts are formed around the curve of the speaker and bonded to the rim of the speaker, which adds to the strength (I was careful not to get glue on the speaker membrane).

    The speaker is the same one that is in the original Flip-Lid. Part of the facia is cut away to house the speaker - so it is recessed, otherwise it would stick out too far. The plastic HS logo was also filed off the back of the speaker to make it even thinner. The only other thing I did was make the speaker wire shorter. Solder is very hot and I didn't want to risk damaging the speaker membrane, so I disassembled the plug end, cut the wire down and reassembled the plug. Safer and looks professional.

    I used Mastic (car body filler) to create that smooth look. If you notice the part where the speaker is, it's about 1.5mm higher than the rest of the facia. Mastic is easily worked, sets rock hard and a lot of sanding gives it that professional look (they use this stuff to repair car panels - it's very, very strong). After the first major sanding, I 'primed' it with black, matt paint. I let this dry and then sanded again. This quickly shows up low points in the Mastic - they stay black. These low points were then filled again with Mastic and then sanded again. This process was repeated.

    The mesh for the speaker is aluminium and from a tap filter. The black ring is rubber and creates a nice comfortable fit on the ear.

    The whole facia was sanded back to the base plastic, primed and four coats of satin black acrylic car paint was used (the first three coats were all lightly sanded between coats). The paint is very strong and possibly stronger than the original paint - time will tell.

    As for making a business out of this, I'm not really sure there would be too many people interested. This took me a total of about 8 hours but most of this was preparation. I wouldn't feel comfortable working on someones Treo, only for them to not be happy with it and with no option of going back to their old facia.

    If you can find a spare facia, I'll be happy to make you a lid-less Treo - it's modular so you can unscrew the old one and simply put on the new one
  11.    #11  
    Thanks for your help nzmoko,

    Is there any way I can send you a mail?

    Please, if you can send me a mail

    I'll be very glad

    Great thanks again
    Last edited by migueld2001; 05/02/2004 at 08:35 PM.
  12. #12  
    Great job!!! I was in the high end car audio biz for several years and I used all sorts of funky stuff to make speaker pods and things with. It's one thing to make it, another to make it nice. About twice as long, if not more. I can appreasite your hard work. .... Darn good job.

    That would be worth keeping, even if you go with the 600 due to the shear coolness factor and being one of a kind.

    Regards, Matt Burkhard
  13. #13  
    I've been looking around for the 180NL photos and instructions (and emailed the creators) to try and do the same; my third 180 just died with hinge issues.

    If I'm able to figure out the basic steps I'll post instructions just as I did with the Treo 180 Dreaded Speaker Syndrome fix.
  14. joeysmith's Avatar
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    nzmoko, i have a 180g which i'd like to convert (and use on my 270) - will you be willing to do the conversion for me? i'd be willing to pay you for the job...
  15. #15  
    Quote Originally Posted by joeysmith
    nzmoko, i have a 180g which i'd like to convert (and use on my 270) - will you be willing to do the conversion for me? i'd be willing to pay you for the job...
    Hi Joeysmith,

    I have done a 180g before - see pic but not sure how you will use a 'g' body on a 270. The 270 has a keyboard and the 'g' doesn't. The 'g' body simply won't fit...
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  16. joeysmith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzmoko
    Hi Joeysmith,

    I have done a 180g before - see pic but not sure how you will use a 'g' body on a 270. The 270 has a keyboard and the 'g' doesn't. The 'g' body simply won't fit...
    oops! sorry - i meant 180 not a G. does the 270 have the same speaker plug? i have already rewired the speaker on the 180 with plane modeler's fine gauge wire. can you send me contact info via PM?


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