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  1. #41  
    keep your calm. now that your treo is opened, 1/3rd of the job is done. look around for suitable cables - you expect too much if you take for granted that the first set of cables that you try out, fits well. you have to look around, inside broken electrical devices etc. you can only begin with the soldering when you have the suitable cables. have a look in the web where soldering is explained, here's what i found after 30 seconds of googling: . and another link:
    and do things step by step and slowly. if you get nervous, keep the disassembled treo parts in a proper place and take a break. just dont get nervous, you'll do it.
    Last edited by jinx; 02/23/2003 at 05:00 PM.
  2. #42  
    I fixed the dead speaker...but had a couple of problems.

    one...the speaker cover wouldnt fit on the side where the wires are going up to the speaker, so I had to cut that part of the lid off, which means the tape insulating the wires is visible. also, i accidentaly had a drop of melted solder fall on the see-through plastic of the flip lid and i cant get all of it off. and lastly, i had some super glue stain the treo's casing in one or two places. Overall, id rather have a working speaker and these minor inconveniences than anything else. SO THANKS JINX AND BORISBOB. IM DEDICATING MY FIRST HANDYMAN EXPERIMENT TO YOU.

    im out....these soldering iron fumes are making me dizzy...
  3. #43  
    congrats :-)))
    and here's a picture to reward you
    Last edited by jinx; 02/24/2003 at 01:05 AM.
  4.    #44  

    You wear this drop of solder on the lid like a medal
  5. #45  
    Does anyone live in the same city as this guy?

    He sounds to be in a dire situation....

    You might try going to your nearest Radio Shack or your nearest Electronics repair place. They'll most likely help you for free if you just want some advice and a little how to. Go at a time of day when they won't be busy.

    Repairmen love it when a techy is at their mercy so be appropriately humble and kiss their ***.
  6. #46  
    Looks like he's got it now!



    My phone has started to act up.

    It rings...I answer...they can hear me...but I can't hear them? Is this the dead speaker phenomenon?

    Usually after about 20 seconds I can hear them.

    And then I have no problems for the rest of the conversation?

    what's up?
  7. #47  
    It is the start of it, sorry to say. It will gradually get worse. Call Handspring for a replacement, or try the rewiring instructions listed here in the thread.

    "it's not the quantity, but the quality"

    There are NO Limits
  8. #48  
    When you take that case apart to get at the internal wires, make sure you are very careful not to crimp the LCD ribbons on either side of the screen. If you crimp em, you get horrible back lines across your screen forever and a unit that you cannot ever return for repair as it is dead obvious that you have been tampering. It happened to me - nasty shadowy lines that I can't get rid of even when I uncrimped the connectors. It is not easy disassembling a Treo 180 and its harder still to get it back together in one piece. Forget about getting the lanyard pin back into place.
  9. #49  
    Got my treo on ebay a month ago and I think the speaker went. Asking the seller about warranty, but if I have to fix it I would need to know:

    what's this lanyard pin?

    It wasn't described in the initial procedures that I saw. Thanks
  10.    #50  
    The lanyard pin is the small metal stick in the upper left corner of your treo.
    I don't use it, so I didn't care when I lost it.

    I really don't think it's hard to take the Treo apart and back together again. I did it a few times, and I'm no electric technician or anyth.
  11. #51  
    I think my Treo has the 'dead speaker syndrome' but I'm not sure.
    Strange thing is that the handsfree speaker button is also not available. This is why I'm not really convinced it's a hardware problem.

    But even after doing a hardware reset I still don't get the handsfree option back.

    Did everyone here had the same problem? Strange thing is that the other side also does not hear me talk. It seams that both the speaker and the microphone are dead. Does this sound ;-) like the 'dead speaker syndrome' ?
  12. #52  
    I think my speaker just went dead. I had my Treo 180 since end of Dec. 2002. Can anyone know how to make sure that the speaker is really dead?

    I am asking because my Treo would show the symptoms of dead speaker problem from time to time but then it would work after move the flip top a bit.

    If there a way to confirm, I would do the procedure outlined here. No use sending to HS as they charge $159.00 plus tax and shipping.

    I am also lookiing at the Tiger Direct offer, they sell the 180 for $150. Are Tiger Direct service any good? I have read some bad experiences with them.

    Thank you again in advance.
  13.    #53  
    Sounds like yes, your speaker wire is dead.
    To verify this, call somebody, if you still don't hear a thing
    through the speaker, try to talk to him whithout
    the headset, then call him with the headset and ask him
    if he heard you the first time.

    If you treo is out of warranty, I would definitely suggest
    repairing it by yourself - it's really easy.

  14. #54  
    Thank you....what you have just described is exactly what is happenning. Without the headset, I could not hear the other person. I believe this is a case for the US FTC since HS does not even acknowledge this as a defect in their product.


  15. #55  
    I experieced similar. It seems the Treo is "stuck" in headset mode, so if you plugged in your headset you can talk and hear fine. Mine did that and I seemed to fix it by inserting the headset in an removing it a few times to unstick it (I had to do it a few times)
  16. #56  
    My speaker died. All I can say good job Handspring! I don't think i have one PDA which hasn't broken in my possesion yet. No warrenty for me though I think I will try the solder route... I can't wait for treo II
    -Michael Ducker
    TreoCentral Staff
  17. #57  
    Thanks Borisbob and other for step by step instructions on how to fix the speaker. One questions remains - how to start? How did you guys begin? I almost started, but could not figure out where you stabbed it first?
    I did not notice any space between the two halves of the lid. Do you stick Swiss army knife right above the speaker? A little to the left, a little to the right? Do you start separating the lid next to a hinge? How do you separate the internal lid from the transparent square glass in the middle?
    Do you stick the knife deep? What side first?

    Borisbob, you did several times... I guess I just need an advice on what and how you did it in the first 60 seconds, where to stick, how deep, and such...

    Thanks guys again.
  18.    #58  
    Icandoit !

    Start from the side close to the hinge - see where the ''TREO" logo is - there ! or the symmetrical one from the other (left) side.

  19. #59  
    Done! The dead speaker is fixed!!!
    Borisbob inspired me to take a soldering gun in my hand agian after a two-decade break (I used to put together amplifiers and stuff like that a long long long time ago). Despite the fact that I got a replacement unit (I don't like it, someting wrong with the keaboard, battery does not last long, etc.). It must be one of YOUR units that they tried to fix very unprofessionally and sent me as a replacement unit. So I decided to fix my own unit and keep it. I have been taking a good care of my own. And I decided to write about how I did it, for what it's worth.

    I just hope the fix will last for a while... And I wanted to do the job right not to be noticeable from outside.

    I guess the most important task here is to find the right wire. I (I guess just like Borisbob) used a piece of wire from an earphone (the one that you put in one of your ears). I wish I spent a little more time to find a more appropriate one, but also wanted to get this freaking phone working again soon.

    So I started by taking a miniture flat screwdriver, and (just like Borisbob advised) started from a right lower corner next to a TREO sign. Stuck it under the lid, and unexpectedly, it started separating relatively easy. Just be careful around a speaker area. So the lid came off easily, exposing the speaker, etc.

    I removed the screws, antenna, stylus. Then I could not figure out what hold the two halves together. It turned out that after removing screws the two halves are still held together by six ledges two on the left, two on the right side, and two at the bottom nex to a recharger/syncronizaton connection. In order to easily separed the lids, you would need to stick your nail between the halves and slightly press a "thicker" half to disengage the ledges sequentially on each side of the Treo. Then make sure you carefully remove the lid not breaking a "rocker switch" and not losing a pin (in the right upper corner of Treo, for those who cares about it, I didn't). So you carefully separate the halves, and see what inside. After you remove the half with a battery piece, unplug it. Now, somebody wrote before me that you should be very careful not to hurt connections around the edges that are used for LCD screen. Try to hold it gently.

    After that it is easy. You cut both wires (red and black) if they did not break by themselves already (follow Borisbob's instructions).

    The thickness (just right to make sure the lid glued back would not bulge) and flexibility (hopefully will last longer in the hinge) of a wire I used seemed a good match for the job (maybe I am wrong). By thickness and flexibility it closely resembles the wire that came with the Treo earpiece right next to the earpiece (I was even tempted to use it but decided to buy the similar one instead).
    It has two sets of wires inside, at first sight it seems that they are not isolated, but I think that they are, apparently the sets (which have slightly different colors) are covered by invisible varnish.

    I read in one of the previous messages that a person could not solder two wires (he had never soldered before). Original (black and red) wires are not easy to solder. Some wires are easy to solder (they hold soldering stuff easy, some not). The ones used in Treo do not hold melted soldering stuff well. I am far from the pro, maybe I am mixing someting here (last time I did it 20 years ago), but I think it is normal for some metals. You can facilitate it by applying a special asid to the wire that would make soldering stuff stick together easier. I managed to do it without using anything else, just a regular soldering gun and tin/lead solder. But to make it stick well and beatiful was not easy. One advice is to scratch the wire areas to be soldered (slightly, easy here, dont' overdo) with a knife or sandpaper to remove varnish/other stuff to make it stick together easier.

    I decided to solder my wire in between the old wires (not directly to the pin and not directly to the speaker. The reason is that I have slighly powerful soldering gun, and did not want to overheat the speaker soldering wires directly to the speaker, and did not want to mess with the pin either).
    So I kept the lengh of original wire from the pin to the point where they broke at the hinge and put a shrinking (if heated) tube on each (black and red) to cover the soldered area after I solder my wire to the original wires, and soldered. The pulled the wire through the hinge.
    And I also cut wires about an inch from the speaker, put tubes (to cover soldered ares afterwards) and soldered by wire to the original wires keeping track of respective colors, black and red).

    Then I foldered the wire with a tube covering a soldered area just like on Borisbob's picture.

    Then I tried to assemble Treo. Plugged the battery pin (carefully with power button, sound/vibration switch, pin, etc.). Tried to turn it on. It did not work. I disassembled. I think I figured out what may have gone wrong. I bent two contacts (that are on the battery half, to the right from the battery) sligly up, I think I did not have a good contact there. Assembled again (careful with power button, and such) again. Worked fine. Turned it on. Works.

    Be careful glueing the lid covering the speaker. Make sure your speaker is in proper position and that it will stick to the "sticky" stuff on the piece that you removed. It may affect the "loudness" of the speaker afterwards.

    That's it. Glue the whole stuff together, test, screw the two halves together, etc.

    So hopefully, the repair will last. I am going to send a replacement unit that HS sent back to them and keep my own.

    Thanks everybody for help. Could not do it without you.
  20. #60  
    Yeah, and I forgot to mention that I wrote all this stuff after having several beers, so don't be hard on grammer (asid - acid, etc.).
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