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  1. #121  
    Ok, I got through all the parts up until "add new port". Im using QPST 323, in passthrough mode, USB 1 set to DIAG, both drivers installed successfully. When I open the ports tab and go to add new port it only ever showed me COMM 3 and no phone on that port, when I uncheck the box at the bottom that says "Show serial and USB/QC diagnostic ports only" it brings up COMM4 and COMM5.

    Does anyone have any advice for me? I tried restarting QPST, tried setting USB 2 to DIAG also. The (maybe) odd thing is when its in USB passthrough mode no devices show up in my taskbar. The battery shows that it is charging though.

    Oh and BTW, it took me all of 2 minutes to get my MSL. Just hit 0 as soon as it started asking me questions, the first lady to answer was able to give me the #


    UPDATE:
    I figured it out! I added COMM5 for the heck of it to see what happened (since in device manager COMM5 said "Palm Pre...."), when I added that port it showed up as the SURF device, everything else went super smooth...resetting now!
    Last edited by jonaddis84; 10/30/2009 at 10:07 PM.
  2. #122  
    Quote Originally Posted by jonaddis84 View Post
    You didnt like the third one down the page on google when you search that exact description?

    ISOhunt the same description, brings up LG phone tools, its in there just download that one file out of the torrent
    I clicked on the third one down in google, wouldn't download. Also, i don't understand your last statement:

    "ISOhunt the same description, brings up LG phone tools, its in there just download that one file out of the torrent"
  3. slag02's Avatar
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    #123  
    Will this increase the accuracy of the Geotagging - that is what I am looking for
  4. #124  
    could someone follow this howto on a gsm pre?
    I fail right at the beginning, because on my pre (o2, gsm) the hashcodes don't launch applications but initiate real calls to dead telephone numbers...
    help!

    edit: hash codes on the gsm palm pre are:
    #*number# dial

    not all the hashcodes work on the gsm pre
    Last edited by einalex; 11/18/2009 at 08:00 AM.
  5. #125  
    maybe I am stupid but #*477# will try to call someone on my german Palm Pre...
  6.    #126  
    Quote Originally Posted by hansmet View Post
    I clicked on the third one down in google, wouldn't download.
    You will simply need to find the version. If you are not capable of downloading the application, you may want to reconsider applying this tweak, or find someone who can assist you (in person).

    Quote Originally Posted by slag02 View Post
    Will this increase the accuracy of the Geotagging - that is what I am looking for
    It should, yes. I've found my Pre to be MUCH more accurate with this tweak applied.

    Quote Originally Posted by einalex View Post
    could someone follow this howto on a gsm pre?
    I fail right at the beginning, because on my pre (o2, gsm) the hashcodes don't launch applications but initiate real calls to dead telephone numbers...
    help!

    edit: hash codes on the gsm palm pre are:
    #*number# dial
    Quote Originally Posted by Holliefant View Post
    maybe I am stupid but #*477# will try to call someone on my german Palm Pre...
    Okay, so which hash code works for the GSM phones?
  7. slag02's Avatar
    Posts
    8 Posts
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    60 Global Posts
    #127  
    Quote Originally Posted by Ebag333 View Post
    It should, yes. I've found my Pre to be MUCH more accurate with this tweak applied.
    Thanks
    I applied it tonight and will let you know my results
  8.    #128  
    Quote Originally Posted by slag02 View Post
    Thanks
    I applied it tonight and will let you know my results
    Keep in mind that my accuracy I found rather poor. About 50% of the time the GPS would report my position at least a couple hundred yards away.

    I live in a fairly mountainous area, so GPS reception is often not super great here. With my old 800w I typically only got about 4-5 sats when it was configured the same as the Pre, once I tweaked it to take advantage of all the modes that shot up to 8-9 sats. The 800w seemed to be more accurate out of the box than the Pre however....

    So you may not see as much improvement as I did.
  9. #129  
    Quote Originally Posted by Ebag333 View Post
    [*]A normal MiniUSB sync cable.
    Pedant alert! The Pre uses a microUSB cable; not miniUSB. /pedant
  10.    #130  
    Quote Originally Posted by maskedferret View Post
    Pedant alert! The Pre uses a microUSB cable; not miniUSB. /pedant






    Fixed.
  11. #131  
    Forgot to post my success. This tweak is working great for me. Acquisition time is cut at least in half.

    I have my touchstone mounted in my car kindof right next to the ignition, and before I would always have trouble getting a signal for some reason, must just be a bad spot for line of sight. But now it gets a fix every time, still takes longer than standing out in the open, but havent had it fail on me yet.

    I didnt pay attention to whether this happened before this tweak or not, but I was driving in Columbus this weekend, and had sprintnav helping me around. I noticed it would tell me I was at an intersection slightly early, like the 0ft would come up when I was still a good 50-100ft away. I guess it could just be accuracy issues because of the location in the car though.

    Anyway, thanks a lot, this is one of the best tweaks for the phone yet.
  12.    #132  
    Quote Originally Posted by jonaddis84 View Post
    Forgot to post my success. This tweak is working great for me. Acquisition time is cut at least in half.

    I have my touchstone mounted in my car kindof right next to the ignition, and before I would always have trouble getting a signal for some reason, must just be a bad spot for line of sight. But now it gets a fix every time, still takes longer than standing out in the open, but havent had it fail on me yet.

    I didnt pay attention to whether this happened before this tweak or not, but I was driving in Columbus this weekend, and had sprintnav helping me around. I noticed it would tell me I was at an intersection slightly early, like the 0ft would come up when I was still a good 50-100ft away. I guess it could just be accuracy issues because of the location in the car though.

    Anyway, thanks a lot, this is one of the best tweaks for the phone yet.
    Being inside a vehicle is pretty bad for GPS signals. Metal is one of the better reflective surfaces out there, so the GPS signals tend to bounce off the metal rather than punching through.

    I've had multiple GPS receivers ranging from all-in-one units to pucks to several phones with GPS, and every single one has had relatively poor signal in the vehicle unless it's on the dash.

    There's something that happens when GPS signals are reflected off a surface, and it will put your location off from where it should be. A GPS device cannot necessarily differentiate between a reflected (bounced) signal and a clear signal, so it may use the reflected signal assuming it's a good one. Because the signal is bounced off an object, it takes longer to get from the sat to the GPS receiver which means that it is no longer accurate.

    This can be why your GPS goes crazy when travelling down a narrow road between tall buildings, on a road next to a tall cliff, in a canyon, etc.

    It's usually not a big deal when you have 8 or 9 sats as the device will quickly figure out that the one or two bounced signals can't be correct. But when you're masking the GPS device (like having it in your car) you will be receiving from less sats, maybe only 4 or 5. And in that case, there aren't enough sats to determine that the bounced signals can't be correct, so it uses it, which puts your location off.

    So all that to say, unless you expose your GPS as much as possible (an external antenna on the roof would be ideal), the accuracy of your location will be diminished.

    HTH.
  13.    #133  
    I've done more testing on the various modes, specifically testing cached mode and stand alone a bit further.

    I've also ranked the speed and accuracy of the various options.

    Read the deets here.
  14. #134  
    Finally got this to work; wouldn't it be cool if I could now use Mapopolis within Classic? Gotta try that sometime soon (not optimistic, though). {Jonathan}
    Prof. Jonathan I. Ezor
    Writer, PreCentral
    Past Palm Real Reviewer
    @webOSquire on Twitter
  15.    #135  
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan I Ezor View Post
    Finally got this to work; wouldn't it be cool if I could now use Mapopolis within Classic? Gotta try that sometime soon (not optimistic, though). {Jonathan}
    Classic would need to have access to the GPS chipset, or at least a certain level to the framework.

    If there's some control over GPS in the framework, then Classic should be able to do it. I don't think any of the GPS apps access the chipset directly, but go through the framework. I haven't dug deep enough into Google Maps or Sprint Nav to confirm however.

    So anyway, it should be possible, if Classic coded in support for it.
  16. #136  
    Quote Originally Posted by Ebag333 View Post
    Being inside a vehicle is pretty bad for GPS signals. Metal is one of the better reflective surfaces out there, so the GPS signals tend to bounce off the metal rather than punching through.

    I've had multiple GPS receivers ranging from all-in-one units to pucks to several phones with GPS, and every single one has had relatively poor signal in the vehicle unless it's on the dash.

    There's something that happens when GPS signals are reflected off a surface, and it will put your location off from where it should be. A GPS device cannot necessarily differentiate between a reflected (bounced) signal and a clear signal, so it may use the reflected signal assuming it's a good one. Because the signal is bounced off an object, it takes longer to get from the sat to the GPS receiver which means that it is no longer accurate.

    This can be why your GPS goes crazy when travelling down a narrow road between tall buildings, on a road next to a tall cliff, in a canyon, etc.

    It's usually not a big deal when you have 8 or 9 sats as the device will quickly figure out that the one or two bounced signals can't be correct. But when you're masking the GPS device (like having it in your car) you will be receiving from less sats, maybe only 4 or 5. And in that case, there aren't enough sats to determine that the bounced signals can't be correct, so it uses it, which puts your location off.

    So all that to say, unless you expose your GPS as much as possible (an external antenna on the roof would be ideal), the accuracy of your location will be diminished.

    HTH.
    This seems like what is happening to my GPS after enabling the other GPS modes. When I tested out the GPS at my house, it found my location right away and was accurate up to 2 feet (which was actually kinda scary!) But when I tested Sprint Nav while driving through downtown San Francisco, the Nav software would repeatedly lose me and state I jumped a half block away, which caused multiple re-routes and was thus almost unusable. Keep in mind, though, that I never had a problem with Sprint Nav before I enabled the other GPS modes. It seems like Sprint Nav is relying soley on the standalone GPS function, which is not ideal while driving close to tall buildings. Is there a way to make the software use whatever method it was using prior to me messing with the settings? I really like the quick fix and accuracy, but not if I cannot use Sprint Nav.
  17. #137  
    (Sorry wrong Quote) QUOTE=jhoff80;1952999 I have no doubt it'd be allowed. The question is whether TomTom or Garmin or any of those companies would bother with it. Let's face it, with the free Sprint Navigation on the device, there aren't going to be too many people willing to pay for a GPS program. That, combined with the much lower install base for now, means that it probably wouldn't be all that profitable for them. Maybe when GSM webOS devices get released you'll get your wish though./QUOTE

    Quote Originally Posted by KnoxBNYC View Post
    Does this mean that someone like TomTom can write a webOS version of their navigation softare, have the map data (which can be a couple gigs) stored on the /media/interal/ drive (USB drive) and you'll be able to use TomTom's software in, for example, Europe, where you have no CDMA signal (and in some situations, no WIFI)??

    You think Palm and Sprint will allow this sort of thing for Sprint customers like me who travel to europe and at least want GPS navigation?
    I tried TomTom under Classsic, the PlamOS emulation app. It's TomTom v6 from my Treo 680. I copied all files form my 680 SD card to the virtual SD card under Classic. Installed it(= first run activation) with a few hiccups and restarts. A new activation code is needed since the Pre is assigned a different devices code in TT compared to my 680.
    Much of it runs: route calculation, preferences, map change, map activation. Since Classic does not support Bluetooth, turn by turn navigation does not work. There is no connection to my TomTom Bluetooth GPS receiver in Classic (The device is recognized the Pre itself). Would be great if there was a way to link the Pre's GPS into Classic.

    I live in Europe and have no access (yet?) to free sprint and turn by turn navigation from Google. I Tested this on my GSM Pre running WebOS v1.2 (to benefit from full-Classic)
    Last edited by Dick99999; 11/10/2009 at 03:57 AM. Reason: 1) Europe 2) right quote inserted
  18. #138  
    can someone please comment more on the sprint nav issues mentioned in the post above?

    I like to try this hack, but if it screws up sprint nav, that's a deal breaker for me

    TIA
  19.    #139  
    Quote Originally Posted by antiphon View Post
    This seems like what is happening to my GPS after enabling the other GPS modes. When I tested out the GPS at my house, it found my location right away and was accurate up to 2 feet (which was actually kinda scary!) But when I tested Sprint Nav while driving through downtown San Francisco, the Nav software would repeatedly lose me and state I jumped a half block away, which caused multiple re-routes and was thus almost unusable. Keep in mind, though, that I never had a problem with Sprint Nav before I enabled the other GPS modes. It seems like Sprint Nav is relying soley on the standalone GPS function, which is not ideal while driving close to tall buildings. Is there a way to make the software use whatever method it was using prior to me messing with the settings? I really like the quick fix and accuracy, but not if I cannot use Sprint Nav.
    First off, the differences between the various aGPS modes is how you find the satellites. That's it. So whether you use aGPS, standalone, or cached, you're using the same satellites and the same data.

    Now there could be one of a couple different things here going on.

    1. Since the tweak, your device is picking up a lot more sats. Because of the reflection from the buildings in down town San Fran, some of those signals are not going to be accurate. So instead of picking up only a couple of the strongest signals (which happen to not be reflected) you're picking up multiple signals and the reflected ones are confusing the device.
    2. AFLT is causing the positioning to be off.
    3. It's a problem with Sprint Nav.



    So here's how to troubleshoot:

    1. Eliminate the easiest first, Sprint Nav. Try using Google Maps. Does it do the same thing? Check ##gps# and screen cap and post the results.
    2. Go back into QPST and uncheck AFTL and AFLT/GPS Hybrid. This will disable the AFLT mode and put you into pure GPS. Try Sprint Nav and see if it does the same thing. If it does, go back to step 1.


    Try those and report back.


    Quote Originally Posted by trim81 View Post
    can someone please comment more on the sprint nav issues mentioned in the post above?

    I like to try this hack, but if it screws up sprint nav, that's a deal breaker for me

    TIA
    Keep in mind a couple of things.

    One, this is the exception, not the rule. The vast majority of people have had nothing but success with this tweak. I've personally applied it on 3 phones now, and seen nothing but good come of it.

    Secondly, this very well may simply be a problem with the location. GPS is notoriously unreliable in high rise areas due to the problems with reflection (properly called multipath). There have been whole new applications and formula's that have cropped up for dealing with multipath. It's a complex and not easily solved issue.

    Finally, this tweak can easily be undone if it doesn't work for you. If you don't like it, you can easily go back into QPST and undo it, no big deal.
  20. #140  
    Quote Originally Posted by Dick99999 View Post
    I tried TomTom under Classsic, the PlamOS emulation app. It's TomTom v6 from my Treo 680. I copied all files form my 680 SD card to the virtual SD card under Classic. Installed it(= first run activation) with a few hiccups and restarts. A new activation code is needed since the Pre is assigned a different devices code in TT compared to my 680.
    Much of it runs: route calculation, preferences, map change, map activation. Since Classic does not support Bluetooth, turn by turn navigation does not work. There is no connection to my TomTom Bluetooth GPS receiver in Classic (The device is recognized the Pre itself). Would be great if there was a way to link the Pre's GPS into Classic.

    I live in Europe and have no access (yet?) to free sprint and turn by turn navigation from Google. I Tested this on my GSM Pre running WebOS v1.2 (to benefit from full-Classic)
    I never said that GPS would work in Classic, and not sure where you got that impression. Motionapps simply hasn't written in any GPS support into Classic. What I was saying is that Palm would almost definitely allow Garmin or TomTom to write an application for webOS, but neither company would probably want to bother with it.
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