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  1. KnightNZ's Avatar
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    #241  
    I've got the OEM car charger for the Samsung Galaxy Tab. Works fine with my TouchPad and has a 2A output so charges well.
  2. scobb's Avatar
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    #242  
    Quote Originally Posted by knightnz View Post
    I've got the OEM car charger for the Samsung Galaxy Tab. Works fine with my TouchPad and has a 2A output so charges well.
    Have you confirmed that the TouchPad gets the 2A? Lots of chargers "could" charge at 2A but don't. I would expect it to work better than the iPad ones, just want to make absolutely certain.

    What data do you get from the Govnah app - when plugged in vs not?

    Thanks!
  3. #243  
    All,

    Let be clear about Touchpad get 2A or not:

    "The chipset 4MHz in Touchpad switching rate keeps the switch-mode converter's passive components tiny, so that a 2A charger made with this device can be smaller than a linear equivalent once the lower power loss is factored in. In fact, due to heat dissipation, most portable devices would not tolerate a 2A linear charger design under any conditions."

    At any time during charging mode, Touchpad designed with current limited circuit not to take more than 1.5 A due to heat dissipation issue. Do not assume that you have 2A input then TP will charges faster.
    Last edited by hoangde; 11/16/2011 at 07:00 PM.
  4. #244  
    Everyone.. I've tried many of the 2.1 Amp chargers. None of them worked. I returned every single one. I did not try the Samsung one on post 241 though. I ordered the one Wheelnut modded and am waiting for it to arrive. I'm going to be super happy knowing that it's going to work! Wheelnut is not charging much for this.. he could be charging $40 or $50 bucks since it's so hard to find one which works! PM Wheelnut now, to buy one. He ships to the US, luckily! Thanks to the great community here we have a solution!
  5. #245  
    Quote Originally Posted by bobwonderful View Post
    Everyone.. I've tried many of the 2.1 Amp chargers. None of them worked. I returned every single one. I did not try the Samsung one on post 241 though. I ordered the one Wheelnut modded and am waiting for it to arrive. I'm going to be super happy knowing that it's going to work! Wheelnut is not charging much for this.. he could be charging $40 or $50 bucks since it's so hard to find one which works! PM Wheelnut now, to buy one. He ships to the US, luckily! Thanks to the great community here we have a solution!
    I have had mine from wheel_nut for a while. It totally works. As a side note, it also stopped my 'fanatical' search for a retail solution. Guess, it doesn't exist, but it didn't stop me from buying about 10 different models! LOL. Ah, the chaos is over!

    Now I'm staring at my Kindle Fire, and asking myself, now why did I buy this??? So far, it too, doesn't have an OEM car charger, but let's not get started again! Just about ANY micro USB charger works just fine.
    Wheel_nut likes this.
  6. #246  
    Hang in there folks.

    My mod guide is coming along. I'm just buried at work, and with the family activities, which I'm sure many of you can appreciate I place as my 1st priority.

    Be patient, you'll like it.
    HP Touchpad, Palm Pre2.

    If you like the help I am providing
    Support my work:

  7. #247  
    FYI - No warranty expressed or implied!

    I modified a Mcally iPad Dual Port Car Charger with the 300k/250k resistors and it works.

    FRYS.com*|*MACE GROUP, INC.
    Model CARUSB10 ($20).

    1. Remove the four screws and remove the cover.
    2. Slide out the connector and circuit board.
    3. Look on the bottom side of the board near the connectors. Remove R11, R12. R13 and R14. R12 is larger than the others (at least on the two I have.)
    4. Check that you didn't make any solder bridges removing the resistors.
    5. Looking at the bottom of the board where the components are, +5V is the pin on the R11 side. Ground is on the R12 side.
    6. Jumper the center two pins (D- /D+).
    7. Solder the 250k from +5V to the center pins (D-/D+).
    8. Solder the 300k from ground to the center pins (D-/D+).
    9. Place two layers of tape under the resistors and leads to make sure they don't short out to anything.
    10. When positioning the resistors, get them into the center of board so they clear the housing where the screws for the cover go in. When you open it up, you will see what I mean.

    For the 300k I used 820k in parallel with 470k (actual = 298.8k). For the 250k I used 1M in parallel with 330k (actual =248.1k). All are common values. 1/8W are fine and tiny enough to fit in the shell (as will 1/4W but 1/2W will be tight.)

    Both ports are in parallel so either will charge at the max amps although I wouldn't try connecting two TP at the same time. It would probably split the current or shutdown the charger.

    I've modded two and both work. They also work with the Touchstone charger. Both work on two different TP's so I am pretty confident I did it right.

    Side note: There is no reason we couldn't use a 500k trimmer pot in series with a 47k resistor and just dial in the D-/D+ pins. There is less than 10uA going through the bridge and into the data pins. I would require a voltmeter to set the D-/D+ voltage.

    Thanks to everyone for working this out!

    Awats

    Update: I am seeing more like 1.7-1.8A going into the TP itself. I am using full brightness and some solid rock to load the TP. Without the charger I am getting -900mA of drain and pulled in I am seeing around 900mA-1000mA of charge. I am discharging the TP now to see what it draws when it's in standby from a low charge. It might really be up near 2A. Wow!

    Update II: Starting at 10% it took 2.5 hrs to get to 90% and 25 final minutes to 100%. So about 3 hrs from 10% to full charge. The charger gets warm but nothing worrisome. The average current from the charger was 1.86A. I would expect charging on the Touchstone to be somewhat slower - my guess is 20% longer. (Update III - more like 50% slower but that is just a function of how the Touchstone works, not the charger module.)
    Last edited by Awats; 11/29/2011 at 08:32 PM.
    Wheel_nut likes this.
  8. dgf2002's Avatar
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    #248  
    how do you know all this stuff? all Greek to me! Congrats!
  9. #249  
    Quote Originally Posted by dgf2002 View Post
    how do you know all this stuff? all Greek to me! Congrats!
    I made it up!

    Experience, nothing more. I am standing on the shoulders of the people here that did the hard work.
    Wheel_nut likes this.
  10. dgf2002's Avatar
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    #250  
    Quote Originally Posted by Awats View Post
    I made it up!
    ha... that's what I always say when people ask , where did you get that from, after a quick poem or a one liner...
  11. #251  
    Quote Originally Posted by Awats View Post
    FYI - No warranty expressed or implied!

    I modified a Mcally iPad Dual Port Car Charger with the 300k/250k resistors and it works.

    FRYS.com*|*MACE GROUP, INC.
    Model CARUSB10 ($20). .............

    Side note: There is no reason we couldn't use a 500k trimmer pot in series with a 47k resistor and just dial in the D-/D+ pins. There is less than 10uA going through the bridge and into the data pins. I would require a voltmeter to set the D-/D+ voltage.
    Hi Awats,

    You beat RickV to it

    Just a caution. If you are trying to set up the trimpot using a Voltmeter, be aware that you are measuring low voltages from a very high impedance source. The impedance of the Voltmeter becomes very significant and will give you false readings even with a 100K Ohms per Volt meter. Unless you have a GOOD FET Voltmeter, I would advise against this.

    Regarding the Resistor selection, 300K is a standard preferred value. If you measure the output Voltage of the Charger, you will (probably) find that it is nearer 5.3V than 5.0V. With this tolerance, a standard preferred value resistor of 270K or even 240K will be fine.

    Lastly, before putting the modified charger within a yard of the TouchPad, and before powering it up,

    1) Measure the impedance between Data pins which should be Zero
    2) Measure the impedance between the Data pins and +5V and Gnd in turn, Each should read about 136K Ohms (empiracally) using a DMM.
    3) Power the charger and and check that you have between 5V and 5.3V between the +5V and Gnd Pins. Check also that you have ~ 2.4V between the Data Pins and Gnd.
    4) For Belt and Braces, I have made up a USB Cable with two 5 Ohm 10Watt Wirewound resistors in Parallel on the end of it. This checks that the charger will deliver 2 Amps without overheating. Probably overkill, but I don't want to fry somebody else's Porsche!

    Now consider introducing the Charger to the TouchPad.

    Thanks for your efforts in making it (even) easier for users to DIY.
    Last edited by Wheel_nut; 11/20/2011 at 09:03 AM. Reason: typos
    rick90680 and pepebuho like this.
  12. #252  
    Quote Originally Posted by Wheel_nut View Post
    Hi Awats,

    You beat RickV to it

    Just a caution. If you are trying to set up the trimpot using a Voltmeter, be aware that you are measuring low voltages from a very high impedance source. The impedance of the Voltmeter becomes very significant and will give you false readings even with a 100K Ohms per Volt meter. Unless you have a GOOD FET Voltmeter, I would advise against this. You could also just set the wiper to 300k ohms from the ground side.

    Regarding the Resistor selection, 300K is a standard preferred value. If you measure the output Voltage of the Charger, you will (probably) find that it is nearer 5.3V than 5.0V. With this tolerance, a standard preferred value resistor of 270K or even 240K will be fine.

    Lastly, before putting the modified charger within a yard of the TouchPad, and before powering it up,

    1) Measure the impedance between Data pins which should be Zero
    2) Measure the impedance between the Data pins and +5V and Gnd in turn, Each should read about 136K Ohms (empiracally) using a DMM.
    3) Power the charger and and check that you have between 5V and 5.3V between the +5V and Gnd Pins. Check also that you have ~ 2.4V between the Data Pins and Gnd.
    4) For Belt and Braces, I have made up a USB Cable with two 5 Ohm 10Watt Wirewound resistors in Parallel on the end of it. This checks that the charger will deliver 2 Amps without overheating. Probably overkill, but I don't want to fry somebody else's Porsche!

    Now consider introducing the Charger to the TouchPad.

    Thanks for your efforts in making it (even) easier for users to DIY.
    All good points. Check your work before applying power. Fortunately I have some good equipment but your point is correct. However, if the tolerance is as wide as you suggest then getting it close will probably work even if measured on a cheap meter (loaded.)


    As for beating anyone, there will never be generic instructions to do this. Whatever someone was going to post, unless it's for the same charger, their work will still be valuable. I only gave instructions on how to mod one particular charger.

    Finally, I wasn't sure just how tolerant the TP would be on the D lines so I used values close to what I measured. If I mod any more I will play around.
    Last edited by Awats; 11/21/2011 at 12:55 AM.
  13. #253  
    you can find them...just search...!!!
  14. #254  
    Quote Originally Posted by Amelliassen View Post
    you can find them...just search...!!!
    Always helpful!
  15. #255  
    Quote Originally Posted by hellensilver View Post
    yes, there is. these is the car charger which has the ability to charge your ipod or iphone, very cool one. i get one for half a year, work quite well.
    Wholesale Cheap IPhone & IPod Car Chargers Online
    As I understand the developments in this thread, it is not necessarily the stated output-capacity/Brand-compatability of a power supply device that is the only factor in successfully charging the #Touchpad# at a fast (-->2A) rate.

    It has as much (if not more!) to do with the configuration of the centre pins of the USB charger output in exact relation to how the Touchpad specifically, (NOT the iP*d) accurately regulates it's own charge rate/requirements efficiently.

    HP, despite all their claims of 'Mobility', never then even produced a car-charger for the specific requirements and circuitry of their own TouchPad Tablet!

    So 'For the iPad', may just as often mean 'slow charge only' for #Touchpads#, despite any claimed high 'Power' or 'Universal' output specs etc of the charger.

    Last edited by Mutoidi; 11/24/2011 at 06:59 AM.
  16. #256  
    Quote Originally Posted by knightnz View Post
    I've got the OEM car charger for the Samsung Galaxy Tab. Works fine with my TouchPad and has a 2A output so charges well.
    Do you get the message on the touchpad that the charger is not compatable and does the battery meter show the charging icon?
  17. #257  
    Just to clarify this for those that have not read al 13 pages of this thread:

    Generic Chargers or Chargers specified for the iPad, iPhone or iPod will NOT charge the TouchPad. Whrereas they may provide some trickle charge withh the Display off, the TouchPad will NOT charge at full rate.

    The solution is to modify the Charger as has been described in this thread by WilyWyrm, RickV, myself and Awats. It requires the removal of four Surface Mounted Resistors and the addition of two Resistors. Yes, it does require Soldering equipment and skills.

    p.s. I have a few "modified" Car Chargers left so PM me if you want one.
  18. #258  
    I have 2 from Wheel_nut and they just WORK! No issues, no searching (and I did, see older posts, tried'em all!)
  19. #259  
    Quote Originally Posted by rick90680 View Post
    I have 2 from Wheel_nut and they just WORK! No issues, no searching (and I did, see older posts, tried'em all!)
    Yo!
    'If it aint broke.. why try to fix it.'

  20. #260  
    Just bought charger from wheel_nut, working absolutely fine.

    Drove 60 miles to work, running GPS software (Copilot) + bluetooth GPS unit, both plugged into wheel_nuts charger.
    The Touchpads battery went from 65% at start of journey to 75% by end - in other words, it easily kept up with the demands of running the GPS software, and bluetooth in use, and wifi turned on.

    Charger was warm to touch at the end of the journey, but that is fairly normal I would say.

    Thanks wheel_nut!

    By the way, I'm running Android (CM7 Alpha 2.1).
    Copilot runs nicely, and stores the maps on the device, so you don't need an Internet connection. I bought the Copilot + UK Maps for about 25 from the Android store, so relatively cheap really. I really like the software. I've experience of TomTom, and would say I prefer it over that.

    You also need an additional app called "Bluetooth GPS". It is free. This basically takes an external Bluetooth GPS unit, such as a Holux, and presents it to Android as a mock GPS device. I don't know if it is a Copilot or Android problem, but they don't seem to be able to connect to the Bluetooth GPS directly - perhaps this will change with the new version of Android, which will appear in a few months time when the CM team can port it.

    I have to start the "Bluetooth GPS" app first, and then Copilot. The only problem I know of is that Copilot seems to lockup/die if the "Bluetooth GPS" app isn't started or loses it's connection to the GPS unit.

    All I need to do now is rig up some sort of in-car mount for the Touchpad.....
    Last edited by gsf600y; 11/30/2011 at 07:32 AM.

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