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  1. scobb's Avatar
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    #41  
    I just got mine this weekend. I had never tried it before 1.2. Too bad, otherwise works great.

    Quote Originally Posted by gage006 View Post
    That makes no sense. It's A2DP standard, there's no reason for it not to work. Especially when it worked perfectly in 1.1. It's obvious Palm broke something in their implementation.
    Unfortunately, it does make sense. Getting profile compatibility between vendors can be tough. I was involved with a BT company early on. The BT org has an "un-plug fest" a number of times a year where all of the vendors' engineers get an hour testing compatibility with other vendors. Kinda like speed dating. If there are issues, they groups try to figure out what the deal is and make fixes on the fly.

    It seems that the handsfree profile group was way to loosey goosey with the exceptions. What followed was an explosion of cases to deal with. It seems they should have been stricter. It would have been longer for anyone to comply, but much better for interop. At the time, it was seen as important to get devices out there.

    Not sure if that is the issue here. Anyone have a link for where to complain to palm to let them know there are issues?
  2. gage006's Avatar
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    #42  
    What's frustrating is that it worked perfectly fine before this 1.2. For Palm to say it's not supported is ridiculous. If they have no intention of fixing it, I'll gladly go to a company that wants to keep its customers.
  3. jc-Treo's Avatar
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    #43  
    Quote Originally Posted by scobb View Post
    Anyone have a link for where to complain to palm to let them know there are issues?
    here ya go!

    Bluetooth Related Issues with Car kits regarding the Palm Pre - Bluetooth & WiFi - Palm Support Community
  4. scobb's Avatar
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    #44  
    More thoughts on this issue. Clearly that didn't just break it to p*ss someone off. The might have broken it, trying to fix interoperability with another device. The old chest of drawers - push in one and another pops out.

    It just occurred to me that the most likely reason was battery conservation. Think about it, you leave your car with BT connected. You get far enough away and the connection drops. Now, what should the phone do? Continue trying to connect to a device that can't be reached. All day. Until you head home in the evening? That is expensive from a power perspective. I can see having it re-try a for a short while, but after that it is a total waste of energy.

    Also, I have a Sony BT stereo receiver hooked to my home stereo. When I get home, I leave the car and go into the house - why should it keep retrying the car.

    It would seem that the Auto re-connect should be a setting. If the Pre spends most of it's time on a touchstone, having it constantly try to connect is fine. However as a default it is awful for battery life. And, that was one of the main complaints.

    Steve
  5. gage006's Avatar
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    #45  
    Quote Originally Posted by scobb View Post
    It just occurred to me that the most likely reason was battery conservation. Think about it, you leave your car with BT connected. You get far enough away and the connection drops. Now, what should the phone do? Continue trying to connect to a device that can't be reached. All day. Until you head home in the evening? That is expensive from a power perspective. I can see having it re-try a for a short while, but after that it is a total waste of energy.
    That can't be the issue. Other kits don't have this problem, they can disconnect and reconnect without a hitch.
  6. #46  
    Another behavior I've noticed is that it disconnects and reconnects for every song, or at least the light goes from blue to yellow, then back to blue for the next song. Its fast, but I don't remember it doing it before.
  7. #47  
    This is weird. It sometimes DOES pair up correctly without having to turn on/off bluetooth. Today it paired up A2DP by itself.
  8. aliatgb's Avatar
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    #48  
    I just ordered this on amazon for $25. I will let you guys know how it goes with the whole mic swapping thing I plan on doing.
  9. gage006's Avatar
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    #49  
    Yeah let me know. I'm alright with the mic the way it is now, but if I can make it better, might as well.

    Hopefully we get this a2dp thing fixed too.
  10. aliatgb's Avatar
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    #50  
    Alright, I got my kit today and played around with it in the car and it works great except for the mic which I was expecting. So I took apart the whole thing and found that changing out the MIC and routing it to my visor is going to be easy. I am also going to bridge the 2 pins on the USB to enable fast charge. Just wanted to check with you guys. I know it seems to always be the two middle contacts that lead up to a USB port that need to be bridged, can some people confirm this for me real quick before I go ahead with this? I will pick up a multimeter tomorrow so I don't fry anything just to be safe.

    Here is what I am talking about, the 4 contacts to the left of the USB port in the attached Image.
    Attached Images Attached Images
  11. jc-Treo's Avatar
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    #51  
    Quote Originally Posted by aliatgb View Post
    Alright, I got my kit today and played around with it in the car and it works great except for the mic which I was expecting. So I took apart the whole thing and found that changing out the MIC and routing it to my visor is going to be easy. I am also going to bridge the 2 pins on the USB to enable fast charge. Just wanted to check with you guys. I know it seems to always be the two middle contacts that lead up to a USB port that need to be bridged, can some people confirm this for me real quick before I go ahead with this? I will pick up a multimeter tomorrow so I don't fry anything just to be safe.

    Here is what I am talking about, the 4 contacts to the left of the USB port in the attached Image.
    Its my understanding that it is the middle two pins. But, I was not able to successfully short them together on the board. I could not fit my soldering iron in the tight space and gave up. I thought it would be easier to come at it from the other side of the board, but I could not figure out a way to separate the two boards to get access to the flip side.

    I gave up and just mod'ed one of the USB cords from monoprice. I leave it in the car and will not need it for data exchange, so its no big deal.

    Good luck!
  12. aliatgb's Avatar
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    #52  
    Well, I was able to bridge the two solder joints to enable 1amp out from the USB port. I don't have a touchstone to test it with but running Pandora I was getting ~400mah from that battery monitor program and with it being charged from the USB port it was +448mah so thats a difference of 948mah.

    The mic I added sucked pretty bad but with the mic that it comes with outside of all that restrictive packaging/shell it sounds pretty good. I am going to use the included mic and mount that on my visor. Still working on it, will report back when done.
  13. gage006's Avatar
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    #53  
    I did the usb bridging mod today. Man...that's a tight little area to get into. Took a bit of doing to bridge them with my crappy generic soldering iron. If you got a long precision tip or something, that'd make it super easy.

    I also managed to break both tabs off getting the front cover off, I need to buy some super glue and put them back on. Those things are VERY fragile.
  14. jc-Treo's Avatar
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    #54  
    Seems to be pairing up better for me now under 1.3.1....
    Last edited by jc-Treo; 03/15/2011 at 10:04 PM.
  15. gage006's Avatar
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    #55  
    Works PERFECT with 1.3.1. Thank god! Remote works 100% for me now too. Pretty excited, now to hope it stays like this through 1.4 or whatever.
  16. aliatgb's Avatar
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    #56  
    Yeah, 1.3.1 fixed having me mess with my phone for like 30seconds to get a2dp working, now it just *gasp* works!

    One feature that would make this whole setup even cooler would be to have voice commands that open programs like the music player or just to even dial phone numbers by holding down the phone button on the remote or something.
  17. scobb's Avatar
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    #57  
    Yes, 1.3.1 works great for me as well. Now, back to the Mic issue. Is the consensus that you can remove the Mic and place it externally?

    Where the device is currently aimed is probably optimal for picking up whoopee cushions, not my voice. If I can't move the mic, I'd prefer to somehow disable the handset functionality. I've more than once (early on) accidentally answered the call by taking the phone off of the touchstone (to see who it was). Then, I realize that I've answered it - but didn't notice that it went to BT. All the while swearing :-)
  18. aliatgb's Avatar
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    #58  
    Quote Originally Posted by scobb View Post
    Yes, 1.3.1 works great for me as well. Now, back to the Mic issue. Is the consensus that you can remove the Mic and place it externally?
    I wish I could answer this properly but I didn't really try out the mic when it was inside the device. The first thing I did when this kit came in was to basically extend the cable on the mic so it is now sitting right above my left window (in the middle) and so far people can hear me fine except they say I sound different and that it sounds like I am at the end of a tunnel. People can hear me so that's all I care about.

    One problem I have is when using the device I have that ground loop noise which I know is fixable. I have it with the engine on and not when its turned on. However if I use the USB port on the device to charge my phone the static/interference gets exponentially worse and it can be heard with the engine off and on. Anyone notice this? The static noise even louder when the USB port is being used? I have a ground loop isolator on the way (bought it myself, the one kengsington was suppose to send never came...) and I am hoping this will clear up the issue when I am using the USB port. I have a feeling that its only going to get rid of the static that is heard when the engine is on, not the static I am hearing with it off.

    EDIT: Nevermind, the ground loop isolator i bought fixed all my problems. God damn this system is freaking perfect now. Just waiting for my touchstone to arrive and I will be in heaven. The ground loop isolator I bought is: PGLI35 the SKU is PGLI35 (SNI-3.5)
    Last edited by aliatgb; 11/20/2009 at 08:42 PM.
  19. #59  
    I scimed though these and did not see the answer i'm looking for.

    Does this work with he touchstone? Plug the usb cable into the Kensington LiquidAUX adn charge the touchstone?

    Can i use my Bluethoth head set in conjunction with this? Meaning I can answer my call though my headset and not the Kensington LiquidAUX?

    Thanks so much...
  20. aliatgb's Avatar
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    #60  
    Quote Originally Posted by mooney101 View Post
    I scimed though these and did not see the answer i'm looking for.

    Does this work with he touchstone? Plug the usb cable into the Kensington LiquidAUX adn charge the touchstone?
    I can answer this one. I believe some people have gotten it to work with the touchstone but it has not worked for me. I have turned the USB port into a fast charging one that is suppose to output 1ma but it does not seem to be enough for the touchstone. It isnt really a problem for me since I bought a cigarette lighter splitter and I have the Palm OEM car charger to power my touchstone.

    Don't know the answer to your second question.
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