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  1. #61  
    Palm really boned us on this one.
  2. raheenb's Avatar
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       #62  
    Yeah tthey did. I just wrote them a letter on their storefront page letting them know as much too. Because of them I've had to buy my first soldering gun. :-p
    Palm Pre owner...for now, at least. :-p
  3. #63  
    I made the adapter modification today and it turned out perfect. Rmackay, thanks for the info and pictures. Mabmarc, thanks for the idea of keeping the cable stress relievers. The only change I made to the design was splitting the ground wire into two separate strands so I could connect it to both pins 1 & 4. A continuity check showed the ground pins were not connected on the circuit board so this helps ensure that both the L & R channels are properly grounded. No problem with overdrive or distortion at all. I now have Internet streaming audio running to my tape adapter and it sounds great. Obviously, I wish I had a direct aux input to my head unit but the tape adapter works surprisingly well.

    I surely hope Palm gets the message and puts a "real" one out but given their track record with customer suggestions, waiting did not seem like a viable option.
  4. #64  
    Great job rmackay! I did not follow your guide on my first attempt and used a 3.5mm screw-barrel from ratshack. I never got it to work and threw my handi-work away. Then I read your instructions using some old female 3.5 extension and dug my cable out of the garbage and it works great now. I even reused the rubber grommet and put the knot in there. It looks factory made.

    Question to Pipestank. I did not solder the ground to pin 4 but was wondering if I'll be allright? I have already superglued the case shut but am now worried about battery drain.
  5. #65  
    The only reason I did it was because the two contacts did not share a common ground via the circuit board itself. I have not looked at the specs on the CM108 chip though to determine whether or not they are functionally the same once power is applied to the chip. By running the ground wire to both though, this ensures that each side is properly grounded.

    I would suggest playing something through the adapter that has good stereo separation and then changing the balance from L to R and back. Check to make sure the R channel has the same punch as the L channel and that stereo separation is as it should be. Given the other results posted though, it sounds like it should work fine.

    And I don't think this issue in any way would contribute to extra battery drain. Although, I recently used mine in conjunction with the Palm Audio/Power adapter and noticed that when streaming audio, the battery continued to drop even with the rapid car charger attached. I have only had the chance to connect it once this way but will definitely be doing some more testing shortly to determine the cause.
  6. raheenb's Avatar
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       #66  
    This OEM Motorola adapter doesn't work...I tried it weeks ago. Apparently Palm has some proprietary circuitry, hence the reason for all the DIY posts in this thread. :-(

    Quote Originally Posted by cypr355 View Post
    Searching came up with this: "OEM Motorola 3.5mm Headset Adapter SYN2113 for Motorola micro USB"

    amazon has one: http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Heads...bosnation0e-20

    Anyone know if this would work?
    Palm Pre owner...for now, at least. :-p
  7. #67  
    Actually, now that I look into that C-Media chip, I've got an idea as to what this is. It seems to just be a generic USB audio device taking advantage of the 800w's USB host functionality... I wonder if you could just attach some kind of generic USB audio device with the proper adapters (the 800w's port is micro A/B).
  8. raheenb's Avatar
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       #68  
    It could be an advertising slogan...buy the Treo 800w and learn how to solder wires and circuit boards! Ha...I just did it for the first time ever, and it works. For anyone else who hasn't done it before, I just followed the instructions that somebody posted on youtube (this link was posted elsewhere in this thread also) . Pretty simple, fortunately!
    Last edited by raheenb; 09/17/2008 at 11:25 PM. Reason: Updated info
    Palm Pre owner...for now, at least. :-p
  9. #69  
    I looked again at that CMI spec sheet... and this caught my eye:
    External EEPROM interface for vendor specific USB VID, PID, and serial number
    l EEPROM write function via vendor specific request for mass production convenience
    l Customized embedded VID, PID, and product string by customer request
    Perhaps the reason other devices were not working is because Palm is expecting some kind of specific vendor ID, or something particular in the product string? This reminds me a lot of how early MCA RS/6000 firmware worked. It would only boot from drives that were sold by IBM (it checked the drive's information).

    Another possibility is that the Motorola adapters are not true USB devices, they could just be shorting a certain pin with a certain resistance to tell the Motorola device to output audio signals over the "USB" pins.

    Basically, we need someone to volunteer to remove the micro USB connector from their headphones and attach a regular USB one to see what happens when its plugged into a desktop PC.
  10. #70  
    I performed the mod with the headphone y-adaptor and it works! Only question is, is it me, or is the volume really low even with the volume turned all the way up?
  11. haus's Avatar
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    #71  
    I just did mine; I'll post some pics later when I have some time. I did mine the same way mabmarc did, and it works nicely. Just waiting for the glue to dry.

    eastbayarb, yes, the volume is very low. My noise cancelling headset amplifies the sound slightly, and I if I need it I bought a separate amp (uses AA batteries) for loud plane rides. It's a lot of crap to plug in, but such is life...
  12. #72  
    Quote Originally Posted by eastbayarb View Post
    I performed the mod with the headphone y-adaptor and it works! Only question is, is it me, or is the volume really low even with the volume turned all the way up?

    I think the amount of volume you get depends on the sensitivity of the earbuds themselves.

    I have $300 moulded to my ear custom earbuds and they are HIGHLY sensitive. I get tons of volume even from sources that don't put out a lot of volume.

    I am going to do this mod later this afternoon, i'll post my results. I am probably going to simply do the route of the female 1/8mm jack since I can't cut the cable to my expensive earbuds.
  13. haus's Avatar
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    #73  
    Here are a few pics; as noted mabmarc was my inspiration and thanks to everyone who posted other pics and details on how this works. For this project I got to buy a new soldering iron; I chose the 15 watt grounded iron from Radio Shack, and it's *perfect* for this job. I have a Weller gun that I've had for years, but you just can't get into these little points with a gun that size.

    Re-using the strain reliefs is a bit of a pain; I had to basically rip out the old wires, then run a small philips-head screwdriver through the strain relief while twisting it to get out all the old bits of rubber insulation. It works, but patience is key. Then I had to round out the edges of the new cable with scissors in order to fit the cable through the strain relief. It's easier if you have a thin cable on the 1/8" adapter. I found the gold-plated radio shack one (#42-2570) to be way too thick, so I cannibalized an older 1/8" jack off an audio extension cable and I managed to get it to fit.

    Pic 1 is just after I soldered the new audio cable in. Obviously you have to get the strain relief on before you solder, then pull it toward the board after you're done. I put tape down under the leads since my wires were a bit longer than they should have been (too much exposed copper). Try to make yours shorter.

    Pic 2 is getting ready to shorten the USB end so this becomes a true "adapter" rather than 4 extra feet of cable I have to deal with on a flight. My headphone cables are long enough. The order, top to bottom, is red, green, white, black, and bare (the bare looks black because they've covered it with insulation, but you can see it's at least 3x the thickness of the data wires). While I had the board in the clamp for soldering, I used a *lot* of tape to protect the board from the pressure of the clamps. You can see it's folded over a bunch of times. Be mindful of the microphone on the other side when you're fixing the clamp.

    Pic 3 is after shortening the USB and re-soldering. My wire lengths are a little better this time, though white and green are way too close together. I pried them apart and used tape to prevent a short, since I didn't want to pull them and start over. I was tense enough at this point. The bare connector (the bottom one) took a *long* time to desolder because the wire is a big heat sink. Don't get discouraged, just hold the iron on it and be patient. The others all come off in seconds, but the red and green wires were looped through the board and required a few hits with the iron before they came all the way out.

    Pic 4 is a poor closeup

    Pic 5 is "waiting for the glue to dry".

    I should have gone shorter on the USB end, but I didn't want to run out of cable in case I made a mistake. In the end, this works perfectly, and I didn't notice any difference connecting the other ground wire on the headphone side (top and bottom solder points on the jack side in Pic 1). Volume doesn't go very high, but noise canceling headphones with a pressure fit seem to help.
    Attached Images Attached Images
  14. #74  
    Quote Originally Posted by PipeStanK View Post
    I recently used mine in conjunction with the Palm Audio/Power adapter and noticed that when streaming audio, the battery continued to drop even with the rapid car charger attached. I have only had the chance to connect it once this way but will definitely be doing some more testing shortly to determine the cause.
    I modified my headphone adaptor in a similar manner, connecting both ground wires to the ground on the 3.5 mm plug, however on a recent trip using two different car charging units at different times in the Palm "audio / power adaptor" noted that the battery continued to drain. Although the "charging light" on the phone remained lit at all times, battery would drain all the way down to zero. Eventually gave up on using the audio / power adapter as it did not seem to work and either charged or played music. I purchased a new car charger on my trip from radio shack, as I thought the first one just might be defective, and the other interesting thing that occured was that the phone would illuminate the LED on the car charger when both the headphone and car charger were attached to the phone via the "audio / power adaptor" (even when the charger was not inserted into the vehicle socket). Car charger worked just fine when attached directly to the phone.
  15. #75  
    Anyone know if this will work?

    store.everythingq.com/motorola-headset-adapter/12A45A3533.htm
  16. #76  
    I was finally able to determine the cause of the battery drain while streaming audio and charging: the Palm Audio/Power adapter itself. After trying two car chargers, three wall chargers, a second pair of headphones AND swapping out my 800w, the only piece left was the simple USB splitter (go figure). I called Palm, they sent me a new one free of charge (thank you Palm), and now the phone will charge and stream audio at the same time. YEA!!! But there is one minor caveat to this success.

    It would appear that there is still a minor charging issue with the 800w, not related to the Audio/Power adapter. I usually put my phone into a cradle when I first get in the car, connect the charger or audio/power adapter and away I go. At this point, the phone charges fine and all is well. But say I stop at the store, turn off my car, leave the phone where it is, run in for whatever and then get back in the car. Normally I would turn the car back on, the phone would once again start charging and all would be well. But no. The phone still "appears" to be charging as indicated by the 'charge light' and the audible connection beep. But guess what? The phone is not really charging. You must disconnect the charger (or the audio/power adapter if in use) and then reconnect it for the 800w to once again start charging. This can be repeated ad nauseam to the same effect and happens with or without the USB update installed.

    This is also on top of all the other slight quirks to the charging process: the 'charge light' not properly reflecting charging status or not coming on at all or the battery only charging to somewhere in the 93% - 97% range. And the quirks are even greater when using the charger through the audio/power adapter as disconnecting the charger from the audio/power adapter will not kick the phone back into charging mode. You MUST remove the audio/power adapter itself and then reconnect it to restore charging.

    Once again Palm has failed to master a basic, simple phone function.
    With such a short battery life, many people like myself rely on the commute to/from work for charging. Getting to your destination only to realize the phone has 36% battery power left because it was not "really" charging is not acceptable.

    PLEASE FIX THIS PALM!!!
  17. #77  
    I did this modification and the sound is great. Only thing is the mute button when I push it does not work. All of my wires look right and the case fits nice but no mute. Not that big of deal but it would be nice just in case. Thank you to everyone who posted the fix.
  18. haus's Avatar
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    #78  
    Quote Originally Posted by JPENNIN217 View Post
    I did this modification and the sound is great. Only thing is the mute button when I push it does not work. All of my wires look right and the case fits nice but no mute. Not that big of deal but it would be nice just in case. Thank you to everyone who posted the fix.
    Mute button? I thought it was a call-answer and hangup button, assuming you're talking about the button on the mic box.
  19. keith455's Avatar
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    #79  
    How can I modify this to work with a headset with a boom mic and cut out the mic i the box.
    also has anyone taken apart the Palm mono adapter to see if it can be made into a stereo piece?
  20. #80  
    I thought it was a mute button also my mistake. It does allow me to answer and hang up. Thanks for the clarification.
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