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  1. insol's Avatar
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    #21  
    Quote Originally Posted by mbabc View Post
    Rats...I cut the earbuds off my stock 800w headset just below the buds and the pair twisted wires aren't insulated, so looks like a few red strands are mixed with the silver. The radio shack stereo y-adaptor has 3 wires; 1 red, 1 black and uninsulated silver. I soldered the 3 reds and 3 silvers and got sound but I'm missing something. If I hold the uninsulated silver from the RS adaptor to either the red or silver from the stock headset it improves in that one channel, but not both.

    Any ideas?
    I am not sure I fully understand what you wrote.. but here is my interpretation:
    Cutting the headsets off is good cause it gives you enough to make corrections (e.g. cut off more and start over). On the y-adapter, it sounds like the red and black are left and right, the uninsulated silver (assuming this is wire and not foil) is the shared ground. On the headset side the wires are insulated. They just don't seem so, they are coated with enamel. You need to burn the enamel off (enough to solder). If you have sound at all you probably have removed it. If they are twisted up, un-twist them so you end up with 4 wires. Solder one colored headset wire to RS-adapter-red and solder the other colored headset wire to RS-adapter-black. Then solder the two remaining headset wires to the uninsulated RS-adapter-silver. Make sure none of the soldered connections are touching one another -- like the red is touching black or red is touching silver, etc.
    Last edited by insol; 09/01/2008 at 10:26 PM.
  2. #22  
    I spliced my crapsets. Took me a while cuz i kept breaking the solder joints on the tiny wires. Suggestion: twist the wirres together first then solder them. Also get some test mp3's so you can figure out which wires are L on the 3.5MM female adapter. Mine had a common ground (brown). I ran red to black and green to red.

    Listening to it now through my QC2's... sounds perfect. I think I have enough wire that i could leave my phone on the table and go all the way downstairs lol. Work just got much better.
  3. mbabc's Avatar
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    #23  
    Quote Originally Posted by insol View Post
    I am not sure I fully understand what you wrote.. but here is my interpretation:
    Cutting the headsets off is good cause it gives you enough to make corrections (e.g. cut off more and start over). On the y-adapter, it sounds like the red and black are left and right, the uninsulated silver (assuming this is wire and not foil) is the shared ground. On the headset side the wires are insulated. They just don't seem so, they are coated with enamel. You need to burn the enamel off (enough to solder). If you have sound at all you probably have removed it. If they are twisted up, un-twist them so you end up with 4 wires. Solder one colored headset wire to RS-adapter-red and solder the other colored headset wire to RS-adapter-black. Then solder the two remaining headset wires to the uninsulated RS-adapter-silver. Make sure none of the soldered connections are touching one another -- like the red is touching black or red is touching silver, etc.
    OK..I soldered BOTH red wires from the headset to the red on the RS adaptor and then BOTH silverish wires to the black on the RS. That's probably my problem. I'll retry tonight and report back.

    Thanks for the reply Insol.

    Mark B.
  4. mbabc's Avatar
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    #24  
    Quote Originally Posted by mbabc View Post
    OK..I soldered BOTH red wires from the headset to the red on the RS adaptor and then BOTH silverish wires to the black on the RS. That's probably my problem. I'll retry tonight and report back.

    Thanks for the reply Insol.

    Mark B.
    I got it done today, but for me it was far from easy. Once I cut off my first incorrect attempt, I carefully split the headset's 2 cables with an exacto knife and pulled out the 2 wires from each one. On one side, one wire was red, the other was copperish. The other side was solid green with the other wire being green with a red wire wrapped in it. I burned off the clear covering, but not all the way down to the black insulation. I then carefully soldered the red wire on the headset side to the red on the Radio Shack adaptor. Then the green wire to the black on the RS side. Then the remaining wires on the headset side to the uninsulated one on the RS adaptor.

    I then shrunk the heat shrink on all the solder points with a larger diameter heat shrink over the whole thing. As for not being easy, the hard parts were the wires are very thin and delicate. They're hard to see, but i used one of those lighted magnifiers and that helped a lot. Also being somewhat color blind (especially on reds vs. greens!) was tough. I guess the whole thing took me about an hour and a half, but I took my time and I am by no means accomplished with a soldering iron.

    It was well worth the effort and it works great using my Koss Porta Pro phones. I was also able to make phone calls with no problem using this setup. I'm next getting a set of Etymotic ER6i phones to wear under my motorcycle helmet and maybe an inline amp like a Boosteroo.

    So to those others thinking about it, go for it!!

    Thanks again to insol for the tips.

    Mark B.
  5. gottspd's Avatar
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    #25  
    I did this today as well. Took about 15 minutes (I had a soldering iron/solder, so at least I didn't have to go to the store!!).

    I'll echo what someone else said, why is it that Seidio is having trouble with this? I'm very pleased with the sound quality and I'm pleased that I don't have to buy some sort of A2DP adapter doohicky!
  6. rmackay's Avatar
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    #26  
    I am going to do this tonight, with a twist on the current solution. I am however, taking pictures at every step and documenting, so I can post a detailed step-by-step how-to. I need one question answered please... On the Palm 800w stereo headset, I need to know which of the 4 colored wires are the two grounds (red, brass, green, red/green)?

    Thank you,

    --Robert
  7. insol's Avatar
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    #27  
    Quote Originally Posted by rmackay View Post
    I am going to do this tonight, with a twist on the current solution. I am however, taking pictures at every step and documenting, so I can post a detailed step-by-step how-to. I need one question answered please... On the Palm 800w stereo headset, I need to know which of the 4 colored wires are the two grounds (red, brass, green, red/green)?

    Thank you,

    --Robert
    ground is brass and red/green

    Quote Originally Posted by mbabc View Post
    It was well worth the effort and it works great using my Koss Porta Pro phones. I was also able to make phone calls with no problem using this setup. I'm next getting a set of Etymotic ER6i phones to wear under my motorcycle helmet and maybe an inline amp like a Boosteroo.

    Mark B.
    Glad to hear it worked out well for you.
  8. #28  
    guys, you can pop open the switch/mic box on the oem set with a butter knife to look confirm wires of the four leads and then reseal with crazy glue (mine is staying closed just snapping it back shut.)
  9. rmackay's Avatar
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    #29  
    I hope this helps at least one person...

    Credits:
    -----------------------------
    I must give credit and praise to the posters at TreoCentral.com whose screen names are Insol and Aero. They are the real pioneers and were the ones brave enough to try doing this and give hope to others like myself. THANK YOU!

    Intro:
    -----------------------------
    I am not an electrician, so the skills needed are very basic (aka anyone can do it) as I can attest with via the successful results I had. My instructions below are very similar to what Insol and Aero described, but with the following changes: I added step-by-step photos to assist others, I used parts that do not require glue/solder/stripping/etc. (see simple list below), and I went for a very finished look (like something I would expect Palm or Seidio to sell and would not appear as home-brewed in any way).

    What you will need:
    -----------------------------
    RadioShack Part Number 42-2559 (Volume Control Headphone Extension Cord)
    Soldering iron
    Precision (aka small) flat blade screwdriver
    Wire cutters
    Electrical tape
    Liquid Electrical tape
    Treo 800w Stereo Headset

    Step 1:
    -----------
    Take the RadioShack (R/S) item (Fig A) out of its packaging, and carefully pry open the volume control portion of the item. I was able to do it relatively easy by going in right where the volume knob is located (Fig B). Slip the screw driver in and gently turn it to pop-open the casing. When done, it should look like Fig C. Now carefully lift out the volume circuit board to completely free it from the casing (Fig D1). You now need to study the connections present. Fig D2 gives a close up view of what it looks like. You will see two red wires, two white wires, and what looks like one copper wire (it is actually two wires stranded together). With the solder connections facing you, imagine that the 5 solder connections are labeled 1-5 (I did this for you in Fig D2). You are going to now take a soldering iron and place it on the point #1 that has a white wire. Heat up the solder connection just enough until you can gently pull the white wire away so that it is no longer soldered on to the circuit board. Now repeat this process for point #2 (1st red) and point #5 (copper). When done, cut the copper wire from the male jack side so the female side is the one left with a free red, white, and copper wire. The male end will still be soldered to the board at points #3 and #4.You do not need the male end nor the circuit board nor casing, so those can now be disposed of.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by rmackay; 09/03/2008 at 09:09 PM.
  10. rmackay's Avatar
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    #30  
    Step 2:
    -----------------------------
    Take the Treo 800w Headset (T/H) and carefully pry open the mute control portion of the item. I was able to do it relatively easy by going in right where the headset wire goes in (Fig E). Slip the screw driver in and gently turn it to pop-open the casing. This casing is a little trickier to get completely open. What worked for me is to slowly go around the unit, opening a little at a time (starting where the headset wires go in), until the entire case was popped open. When done, gently lift the circuit board out of the casing (note that you need to gently lift out the stress relievers too (the little black rubbery molding on the wires thenselves). Your T/H should now look like Fig F1. You now need to study the connections present. Fig F2 gives a close up view of what it looks like. You will see a red wire, brass wire, green wire, and a green with red wire. With the solder connections facing up, imagine that the 4 solder connections are labeled 1-4 (I did this for you in Fig F2). You are going to now take a soldering iron and place it on the point #1 and heat up the solder connection just enough until you can gently pull the wire away so that it is no longer soldered on to the circuit board. Repeat this for points #2, #3, and #4. When done, the earbuds should no longer be attached. You will not need these anymore so you can dispose of them.
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  11. rmackay's Avatar
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    #31  
    Step 3:
    -----------------------------
    Now take the R/S female jack, and carefully un-knot the red and white wires. This will give you some extra length to work with and make the job somewhat easier. Remembering the numbering sequence shown in Fig F2, solder the R/S red wire to point #2, the white wire to point #3, and the copper wire to point #1. When done, your work should look like Fig G. You are almost done! All we need to do now is insulate the exposed copper wire (that you soldered to point #1) and also insulate the circuit board. To insulate the circuit board, simple cut a piece of electrical tape to fit and tape onto the board as shown in Fig H. To insulate the copper wire, simply brush on some "liquid electrical tape" (I used StarBrite (http://www.starbrite.com/productdeta...ProductSSCat=). It is available in most marine/boating stores and in WalMart in the Boating/Sporting Goods section. When you are done with this, your work should look like Fig H. Give the liquid tape about 5 mins or so to dry. Now you need to reassemble the casing. Place the circuit board back into the casing. Note that the casing has cutouts on one side to hold the board - so to assemble, insert the long edge of the board into the cutouts, and then lay down flat on the the supports on the other side. While holding the board in place, carefully fit the microUSB cable's stress releiver molding back into the casing. On the other side, gently push the female jack's wiring forward enough onto the taped circuit board, so as to give enough room for its cable stress releiver to fit inside the casing (this is important, as the wires are fragile and will likely break without it). Now, gently snap the other side of the casing back on. When done, you will have a cable that looks like Fig I. IMHO, it looks like something Palm or Seidio would sell in terms of a very nice polished/finished appearance. A nice extra, is that the microphone/mute features of the cable are still active, so even with a regular set of headphones, when used with this cable, will work just like a headset!

    Enjoy!

    --Robert
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by rmackay; 09/03/2008 at 09:13 PM.
  12. #32  
    Searching came up with this: "OEM Motorola 3.5mm Headset Adapter SYN2113 for Motorola micro USB"

    amazon has one: http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Heads...bosnation0e-20

    Anyone know if this would work?
  13. #33  
    Awesome job, rmackay! I may give this a try myself come the weekend.
  14. #34  
    Rmackay, that is SWEET!

    Thanks for the write up with pictures! I love to see pictures, I guess I'm more of a visual person. Thanks to the creators of this hack (Insol and Aero). Hats off to all of you!

    I'm going to bookmark this and take up this project sometime when I get a break from school.

    Thanks Again!
  15. #35  
    rmackay, great write up! I made my adapter last night. It works great. I am happy to report that thanks to Hannips new A2DP setting my BT adapter used in conjunction with my Etymotic Research ER4 MicroPro earphones has just as good fidelity as the corded adapter made using your instructions. It looks like Blue-Tooth and A2DP are finally ready for prime time.
    Pilot 1000 -> Pilot 5000 ->Palm Pilot Professional -> HP 620LX -> TRG Pro -> Palm V -> Palm Vx -> Palm M505 -> Palm i705 -> Palm Tungsten|T -> Samsung i500 -> Treo 600->Treo 650 -> Treo 600-> Treo 700p ->Centro ->Treo 800w + Redfly C8n -> Palm Pre -> HP Touchpad
    R.I.P Palm 1996-2011
  16. #36  
    Quote Originally Posted by cypr355 View Post
    Searching came up with this: "OEM Motorola 3.5mm Headset Adapter SYN2113 for Motorola micro USB"

    amazon has one: http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Heads...bosnation0e-20

    Anyone know if this would work?
    I called a local cell phone accesories store and they seem to think it would work. It's more, $20, but he says he will let me return it if it doesn't work.

    I don't see why it wouldn't? It *is* micro, not mini usb. I saw they make a mini usb adapter too and it has a different part #....
  17. #37  
    Quote Originally Posted by slopokdave View Post
    I called a local cell phone accesories store and they seem to think it would work. It's more, $20, but he says he will let me return it if it doesn't work.

    I don't see why it wouldn't? It *is* micro, not mini usb. I saw they make a mini usb adapter too and it has a different part #....

    It does not work. Treocentral was selling it through their own store for the 800w and everyone who bought one got screwed for the cost of return shipping. They never even tested the thing.
    Pilot 1000 -> Pilot 5000 ->Palm Pilot Professional -> HP 620LX -> TRG Pro -> Palm V -> Palm Vx -> Palm M505 -> Palm i705 -> Palm Tungsten|T -> Samsung i500 -> Treo 600->Treo 650 -> Treo 600-> Treo 700p ->Centro ->Treo 800w + Redfly C8n -> Palm Pre -> HP Touchpad
    R.I.P Palm 1996-2011
  18. #38  
    I see from another thread that others have tried it and it doesn't work.

    FYI- Thanks to the user who posted the detailed step by step and photos. I went out after work and got the supplies and had a working headset that works with my Shure headphones. Didn't take long, and was simple to do. I have used a soldering iron since I was a teenager working with my dad on RC projects.
  19. #39  
    Sorry if this is a stupid question...but why wouldn't everyone just use this?

    http://store.palm.com/product/index....entPage=family
  20. #40  
    Quote Originally Posted by wildrage View Post
    Sorry if this is a stupid question...but why wouldn't everyone just use this?

    http://store.palm.com/product/index....entPage=family
    Isn't that 2.5mm? Aren't standard headphones 3.5mm?
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