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  1.    #1  
    Replaced battery in my Sprint T600 last night (it's 1.5 yrs old). Got batt from PDAparts. No probs disassembling, removing old batt, installing new. Unit's screen backlight lit up once new batt was installed, screen was blank. At this point I don't remember exactly all I did, but overview is that I reassembled, then remembered I'd wanted to tweak the headset jack's connectors to tighten up the fit when jack is inserted (the jack block is hollow and it's possible to go in from the "back" of the block with say a swiss army knife plastic tooth pic and tweak the connector therein). Removed back, disconn batt, did jack tweak, reconn batt, screen backlight lit (screen black) -- at some point in here screen itself became white with lines across it -- hard reset message text was there -- then screen went black and backlight went off. Finished reassembling, LED was blinking orange at long intervals, inserted charger, got solid orange charging light -- figured batt was shipped with only slight charge in it -- left overnight.

    In morn, had solid green charged light, removed charger, LED goes out, and no response from unit at all. Tried soft, hard, on-charger, and so-called battery resets -- all to no avail. Disassembled unit (am getting fast at this now disconnected battery, reconnected, and nothing happened. Reassembled, and behavior is same as before. Inserted charger, get charging light, and if left for a few minutes, it turns from orange to green (as I'd expect ifn the batt is essentially fully charged).

    Now, my unit has lived in my pocket for 1.5yrs, in amongst keys, napkins, and assorted junk. It has emerged from said pocket "dead" before, and inserting charger always "fixed" it -- altho it was equivalent to a hard reset. (thank goodness for BackupBuddy). I've always figgered that somehow a key'd gotten into the charger socket on the unit and shorted across some of the leads and caused it -- and indeed sometimes the leads have been slightly bent (I've gently straightened them from time-to-time).

    The insides of the unit have a fair amount of napkin lint floating around -- its fairly dirty in there. I'd gently wiped off the back of the circut board when changing the batt.

    Anyways, some questions..

    0. anyone have a magic incantation that I haven't yet obviously tried?

    1. has anyone fully removed the circut boards from the "front" side of the unit?
    I note that there is a sort of oblong-in-plan-view switch on the main board that the case back squeezes when the case back is on, and also there is a ribbon connector a little "below" that on the same side of the board as aforementioned switch. Are there any gotchas with these things in terms of unscrewing and removing the main circut board?

    My interest in removing the boards are to clean out all the lint in there. with my laptop at least, I've learned I need to disassemble and dust it out from time to time, otherwise I get odd behavior (eg mouse pointer and touchpad quit working).

    2. Any other physical tweaking/jiggling to try?

    thanks.
    mobileuser
    [PalmCentro-Sprint / (K)Ubuntu GNU/Linux]
  2. #2  
    Maybe it is the screen connector? Try making a "blind" phone call to see if it works?
  3. #3  
    There are 2 screws that hold the boards to the case (once opened). You'll see them towards the bottom of the boards, 2 screws on either side that are the same type of screws that hold the case together. Be sure the unit is off before attempting to do any work inside, after the case is apart pull the battery cable.

    I'm assuming you have taken the case apart before, but a little trick is to use a thin credit card to help separate the cases. As you slip the card in the groove of the case, push down a little and you should feel the internal hooks release and the case easily falls apart (try it, it really works)

    There are some flex circuits connecting the two boards together that will allow the boards to easily lift up then swing open (carefully cannot be overstated) Only care is needed while handling the boards, and I would HIGHLY recommend you follow anti static procedures while handling the boards (at the very least, ground yourself then don't move your feel while you're handling the boards)

    There's not really much you can do inside other than some cleaning. If you want to blow out the dust, I would recommend you use canned air in place of just blowing on it.

    Once apart, you can check the flex circuits to see if they have become loose and gently push them back inside their connectors.

    good luck
  4.    #4  
    SUCCESS! Thanks for the tips justezzenu -- I read them before taking the boards out of the front half of the unit. It was really easy. the only gotcha is the press-connector to the screen, which is what my trouble apparently was in the first case....


    I got it working again. Here's how..

    so the deal is that what I'd done wrong on disassembly to replace the battery was getting the connector to the screen properly aligned upon case back reassembly. I completely disassem last night -- pulling most everything out of the case, cleaning, and reassem, and noticed the screen connector, which is held in place on the main board by a rubber block on the case back (see 3d pic here: http://www.livejournal.com/users/sha...83.html#cutid1 -- the connector is the little black rectangle on the right side of the big black rectangle (batt) in the middle of the board) was miss-aligned and some of the (damn small) connector teeth were now skewed.

    so I straightened teeth (using long edge of the nail file in my swiss army "classic" (small) knife), realigned, got the connector to plug in (yea! the screen lit up (into the after-hard-reset-digitizer-calibration app), even with the back still off), put back on, and did the digitizer-calibration thing, and voila, unit was fine. Then I re-synced with lapstation (I use BackupBuddy, so it totally restores the unit automatically), and it's now fine.

    whew. ;-)

    See this thread for details on the rubber blocks in there (4 of 'em) and pointer to another doc with interior pics..

    complete T600 disassembly
    http://mytreo.net/forum/index.php?topic=11696


    thanks!
    mobileuser
    [PalmCentro-Sprint / (K)Ubuntu GNU/Linux]
  5.    #5  
    hm, good thot astroz, tho I didn't try that... I was too focused on getting in there & mucking about. Also, the fact that when disconn from power, the LED was completely off. If it'd been blinking I might've tried it.

    thanks again.
    mobileuser
    [PalmCentro-Sprint / (K)Ubuntu GNU/Linux]
  6. #6  
    I seem to remember a thread here where there was a long discussion of the "warranty" that this seller provides on it's batteries: "We provide a 30 day limited exchange warranty on all items we sell."

    The problem is, you would expect a battery "Designed to the same specs as Palm" to last about as long as the battery designed by Palm (and to be covered if it isn't). The unfortunate member of Treocentral discovered that his battery lasted just over a month or 2 before it crapped out. And PDAparts.com essentially told him "tough luck..."

    So if you notice ANY problem with that battery not holding a full charge, you had best tell them immediately (too late to void the sale). Personally I will avoid pdaparts.com at all costs because I expect a reasonable life out of an internal "non-replaceable" rechargeable battery, and 30 days is unconscionable if not illegal (see the thread for that discussion).
    Treo 755s in good condition available on ebay for $50-$75. No need to pay for insurance or buy a Pre.
  7.    #7  
    Thanks for the info Joad. I'll watch it closely.

    Also, do you have a URL to the relevant thread?

    thanks again.
    mobileuser
    [PalmCentro-Sprint / (K)Ubuntu GNU/Linux]
  8. #8  
    I replaced my original treo 600 battery with a battery from pdaparts many months ago and am still getting very good life out of the battery. so... YMMV
  9. #9  
    Any updates on the duration of the replacement battery before I take the plunge?
  10. #10  
    Anyone?
  11. #11  
    I'm also wondering about this. I'm starting to have problems with my Treo 600 that I believe are being caused by the battery losing its charge over time; ie when the battery gets around 60% or so, the camera malfunctions, and I can't make phone calls, connect to Vision, or even turn on the phone portion after a reset, but when I plug it into an outlet its fine.

    Sprint basically told me I'm screwed (since I'm not under warranty anymore), and would have to buy a new phone. (They offered to buy back my phone from me for 75 dollars; I could probably get double that just selling it on Ebay. The total discount they'd give me after buying back my phone, giving me a discount for being a customer for a while, and something else that they mentioned was $150, off their full price of $499.)

    I'm going to try a few other things, but if they can't help me out, I'll probably have to try replacing my battery as well.
  12. #12  
    Well, I went ahead and took the plunge. So far so good. Battery life is 10 times better (My original was almost 2 years old). But for some reason, it seems like I'm getting about one less bar on my signal strength now. I made sure the antenna is connected, so who knows....
  13. #13  
    Mine is also getting to be almost two years old before the battery is having issues. I wonder if thats about how long the batteries are rated to be good for? Who knows, but I wish I had signed up for insurance in the past few months.
  14. #14  
    This thread has been dormant for a few years but I still have my 600 and have had to replace my battery twice. I found that the ones online last only about 6 months with normal useage.

    But this thread did help me out a lot because on my last battery change my screen was blank. So I re-opened it up and did find something askew. I straighten it up and I am back in business. Thanks for the advice even if it is over 2 years old!

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