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  1. #41  
    OH Kay, here's my 2cents worth on this case. First of all, its better than the leather case from the Piel I was using. In spite of Piel's high quality craftsmanship, that one was starting to stretch out, earplug hole wasn't cut out accurately, etc. The Innopocket has pretty much everything cut out proper. There needs to be a little more room at the top of the case so as to more easily switch the phone to silent/vibrate a little easier and quicklier. The 2 biggest improvements that are needed are the hinge and the screwpost. I used Loctite "blue" adhesive before I even started using the case and about a month later it did start coming loose. I'll re-glue the post especially since the whole thing fell off my belt clip yesterday (leaving my belt clip looking up at me with that blank kinda expression). The really impressive and most important thing was the phone is just fine. Its a great case, no more accidentally making or answering calls by accidentally rubbing or pressing buttons.
    There needs to be a lower hinge down around the keypad area.
    Another tweak could be to make the cutout for the 4-way button a little biggger or line it up a little better. The hole seems to be off by just the thickness of the neoprene lining. As far as not being able to use the caller ID, I took y'alls suggestions and assigned everyone their own ring (my 18 year old daughter has the Halloween theme assigned to her calls).
    Overall this is a great case. If and when they come out with another version, I'll definetly be buying it.
    So there's my 2cents.
    Thanx to y'alls post I think I made another intelligent, informed decision (which kinda balances out some of those other decisions)
  2. #42  
    Quote Originally Posted by Dalai Lama
    I too have been worried about trusting a $600 phone to a dollop of adhesive....
    Two words: JB Weld (Cold Welding Compound). See http://jbweld.com/coldweld.html . I've used this stuff to patch automotive radiators and engine blocks - it's really tough.

    I used a Dremel tool to roughen up the backside of the Rivet post, and also the point on the Innopocket case where the post is mounted. This allowed the JB Weld to grab better than if it were trying to bond smooth aluminum (case) to smooth steel (post).

    I mixed up a bit of JB Weld, coated the back of the Rivet post in a thin layer of the stuff, and put the post in place on the Innopocket case. I used a rubber band to hold things together overnight.

    I think the Rivet post is now a permanent part of my Innopocket case.

    Best regards,

    Tim ==
    Last edited by xpanmanx; 08/14/2004 at 09:50 AM.
  3. #43  
    this is a great case. saved the treo from a drop where other cases would have curled up and started to whine. the innopocket took the heat and did the job of saving the treo and more than paid for itself.
    i agree that there needs to be another hinge at the bottom though.
    and a word of warning - DO NOT USE THE BELT CLIP. it's notoriious for releaseing the treo. You might end up dropping it, or leaving it in the cab. Don't say I didn't warn you.

    Other than that, it's perfect.
  4. #44  
    I'm going to try the Rivet with JB Weld... Did you glue the post above or below the socket for the original screw-post?
    http://www.doctordalai.com
  5. #45  
    I glued it above the original Innopocket post mounting position.

    Hey, before you do this, you should know that I managed to chisel the Rivet pin off the case with a small standard screwdriver and a little hammer. A couple of taps, and it came right off.

    But that's not exactly day-to-day wear-and-tear :-> I just wanted to see how much abuse the joint would take. I put the pin right back on with another daub of JB Weld cold-welding compound.

    IMHO, you might be able to pop a "JB Welded" pin off in day-to-day use, if you managed to leverage the case just *so*, between your thigh and torso while crouching, but you'd have to go out of your way to do that.

    (FWIW, that's how I popped off my Rivet pin the first time, when it was secured with the OE double-sided tape. I'm leery of a repeat performance.)

    My next experiment will be to take one of Rivet's "Universal Pins", cut the backing plate off it, cut threads on the pin to match the Innopocket post, and screw it right into the Innopocket factory mounting point. A little Locktite Red will hold things together quite nicely. If the pin is too small in diameter for the OE mounting nut, I'll replace the nut. I'll do this in the next 10 days or so and I'll let ya'll know.

    I wonder if Innopocket (or their OE manufacturer) is aware that a similar approach would work quite nicely as a factory solution. Ditto for Rivet.

    Best regards,

    Tim ==
  6. #46  
    It sounds like your workshop is a little better equipped than mine..... Perhaps as someone up the thread suggested you could drill holes into the rivet and the case and countersink some small screws? I had thought of placing the universal Rivet pin in the threaded hole from behind (perhaps slit the neoprene), but the "joint" at the base would stick back out into the case. As you note, I really wish Innopocket and Rivet would get together and fix this!

    In the meantime, I am going to try the JB Weld thing. When you chiseled it back off, did the epoxy come off the case or the Rivet? I'm thinking it might help to form a rim of epoxy around the edge of the Rivet....
    http://www.doctordalai.com
  7. #47  
    Heehee, not so much better equipped. All ya need is a hacksaw and a tap-and-die set ;->

    When I chisled the Rivet pin off my case, the epoxy remained on the steel pin, and the aluminum case was clean as a baby's bottom.

    Well, not *my* baby's bottoms - but that's a wee bit off-topic ;->
  8. #48  
    OK, how about this...

    Epoxy the Rivet pin to the raised area around the screw threads, getting the glop into the screw threads (take the bloody Treo OUT first!), and into the tip of the pin. Perhaps trim the edges of the pin to match the base of the screw threads. THAT should hold it!
    http://www.doctordalai.com
  9. #49  
    Yup, that would do it alright.
  10. #50  
    I did it. It has held for 5 days without trouble. Thank you xpanmanx!
    http://www.doctordalai.com
  11. #51  
    Well, the pin remains very permanently attached to the case. However, the Rivet e-Clip itself failed! The ball of the pin seems to have ground out the bottom of the channel within the clip, and last night, my treo took a 3-foot fall to a marble floor!!!! THANK HEAVENS for the Innopocket! The case got a small dent, but there is absolutely NO DAMAGE to the Treo itself. I have an email in to Rivet (http://rivetequipped.com) to see what they might want to do about this....
    http://www.doctordalai.com
  12. #52  
    Quote Originally Posted by Cliffy15
    As much as I like the Rivet locking/release system, I may need to go with something by Vibra Tech. That way, the reduced vibrate functionality of the Treo/Hard Case will be remedied....
    What's the reference above to Vibra Tech? I know they're a company that detects seismic vibrations. Is there also a product that helps pick up the weak vibration of a Treo?
  13. #53  
    Errr. I found a product online, somewhere, called the VibraTech belt clip. Basically, it was a swivel clip, but one the belt-clip-end was a AAA battery and a sensor to pick up the phone's electromagnetic field when it turned on upon receiving a call.

    Kind of a lower-tech alternative, but I can't seem to find the manufacter's website.
  14. #54  
    Dudes, I frankly don't quite understand why people insist on spending $30+ for a case (unless, of course, it's paid for by somebody else).

    I have this one: http://accessorygeeks.com/hstreo600case.html

    $6.99, free shipping. Works fine for me.

    It fits very well, and cut-outs are good.

    It's a spring-clip, which is MUCH slimmer than any clip. I've hated clips since 98, especially the swivel-type that could easily pop up.

    I type in the case, which is fine -- the outer keys are a little tough but I doubt anyone with a covered, transparent front could do any better.

    I only take it out of the case when I have to quite a bit of touchscreen. Occasional touchscreen works fine through the clear plastic front.
  15. #55  
    Quote Originally Posted by continuum
    Dudes, I frankly don't quite understand why people insist on spending $30+ for a case (unless, of course, it's paid for by somebody else).
    All a matter of personal taste. What works for you definitely doesn't work for me.

    I don't like the use of the phone keyboard/touchscreen with a film over it. I'd prefer horizontal carry. Face goo gets irritating to clean but would still like unrestricted access to the keyboard and touchscreen when necessary.

    The innopocket case solves all of these problems for me - except for the poor silent alert of the T600.
  16. #56  
    I received this from Rivet's Chris Parnell last night:

    Dalai Lama,

    I appreciate your feedback on our product and apologize you have experienced a malfunction.
    We do offer a lifetime warranty on all Rivet components and make every effort to design and develop the most secure system.
    Please let me know if I can send you a replacement system to give second chance to.
    I would also appreciate your feedback on what we can do to improve our system for Treo users.

    Thanks,
    Chris
    RIVET NORTH AMERICA
    www.rivetequipped.com



    I applaud a company that takes this attitude. I can't imagine that the treo and Innopocket combination would weigh enough to tax the Rivet system and grind it away. Maybe I got one of the few lemons. I actually fixed the problem temporarily by taking a hammer to the lower part of the Rivet eClip and mashing the threads back together a little bit. Anyone else have any ideas?
    http://www.doctordalai.com
  17. #57  
    Yes, Chris is a nice guy. :->
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    #58  
    I have the egrips as well as this case. I took tin snips and cut off the two tabs on the left side of the case that hold the phone in. With the 2 remaining tabs on the right and egrips agains the neoprene it's never coming out. I can now do a slide into the case from the side as opposed to dropping it in from the top. This keeps the egrips in good shape.
  19. #59  
    Quote Originally Posted by continuum
    Dudes, I frankly don't quite understand why people insist on spending $30+ for a case (unless, of course, it's paid for by somebody else).

    I have this one: http://accessorygeeks.com/hstreo600case.html

    $6.99, free shipping. Works fine for me.

    It fits very well, and cut-outs are good.

    It's a spring-clip, which is MUCH slimmer than any clip. I've hated clips since 98, especially the swivel-type that could easily pop up.

    I type in the case, which is fine -- the outer keys are a little tough but I doubt anyone with a covered, transparent front could do any better.

    I only take it out of the case when I have to quite a bit of touchscreen. Occasional touchscreen works fine through the clear plastic front.

    have you ever dropped your treo while in that case? i doubt it would survive the fall. on the other hand - the $30 metal case saved my treo on mulitple occasions. spending $30 as a small insurance is not bad considering the phone is pretty expensive
    WASHINGTON (Reuters) - A tragic fire on Monday destroyed the personal library of President George W. Bush. Both of his books have been lost. Presidential spokesman Ari Fleischer said the president was devastated, as he had not finished coloring the second one...
  20. #60  
    Good augument Canada but you can get a metal case that gives the same protection with a cut out for caller Id for half the price.

    Fred
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