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  1.    #1  
    I have a newer (to me) TP Go and I tried to charge it on the Touchstone, and I can't get the charger to register. I took the back cover off my other Go and put it on the new one, and my other cover worked. I guess there's something wrong with the charging coil or the contact placement on the newer Go. The problem is that the back cover that doesn't work has a much larger and more permanent-looking adhesive cover for the charging coil and I don't want to take it off if I don't have to. I sincerely doubt I'll get it to lay down that flat again.

    So -

    1) What can I look for if I take up a multimeter and put the open back cover on the TS charger to test the coil?
    2) Are there any ways to improve the connections between the contacts if the coil does work?
    3) Does anybody here do fixes for this? Or have an extra cover they would part with or trade to fix this one? (Yes, it's a longshot, but I might as well ask.)

    It's a small thing, but I'd like everything to work if I can fix it or get it fixed, and I really like the wireless charging. I'm willing to do a little work to fix it.

    Any help appreciated, as always.
  2. #2  
    Have you considered testing the good one and comparing??
    Sporting my 13th Pre device, a NOS unlocked ROW Pre3!
  3.    #3  
    That should have occurred to me. I can record whatever values I can find, but I was hoping someone would volunteer a pin map or point me to one so I'd have something in hand to start with. I'm not actually good at these sorts of things (yet).
  4. #4  
    If it weren't one of the rarest devices on the planet, you might get something but I can't imagine there's anything to work from except the device itself. At least you have another which is a small miracle. Pretty much any variance from the functional model is going to be your focus. It could be relative placement affecting alignment, a continuity break, or faulty micro electronics. But the bottom line is it just needs to deliver the juice. It should be traceable.

    You might want to find a microelectronics expert, if that's not your bag, baby. (in my best Austin Powers) Someone who thinks Radio Shack is for amateurs. The inductive charging part doesn't require a cellular phone specialist. But yeah if you don't use heat correctly, you can warp the plastics and it's FUBAR'd.
    Sporting my 13th Pre device, a NOS unlocked ROW Pre3!
    Remy X likes this.
  5. #5  
    The first and most obvious thing I would look for (so you doubtless already have!), is that the 'extra' locating tab on the back cover, designed specifically to hold the connector board there tightly onto the sprung pins (does yours have 6 or 8?) in the chassis, is not broken or damaged and is locating & locking-in correctly?

    Also obvious.. but the Go will only charge on the TP Touchstone when 'Home Button' is lowermost & central.

    Good luck checking out the electrical 'specs' ~ let us know how you go.



    **Repair edit - 15 months later!
    (Note to 'dkirker' @ #6 below ~ this works really well, so far!)

    Unfortunately, I also snapped this extra locating tab completely OFF by mistake (they are not strong) and decided to try Sumi's 'workaround' repair.

    Yes, peel off the relevant backing material AND the connector pads from inside the rear case and insert a small section of double-sided adhesive foam tape in the right position underneath all the connector pads before pressing it and the backing material back down onto the cover again.

    This provides a nice raised & 'sprung' pad to continue to press the connectors successfully against the pins, conforms well to the curved shape of the back cover when refitted and actually seems easier than the alternatives, which were to try and 'superglue' the old snap-tab back into position, or solder longer wires in..

    Last edited by Mutoidi; 03/31/2016 at 05:02 PM. Reason: 'Development'

    TP 32Gb 4G. 3.0.5 / CM10. ~ Pre3 16Gb GSM. 2.2.4. ~ TS2 BT Audio-Dock ~ HP iPaq. hx-2790b.
    TP 32Gb Wifi. 3.0.5 / CM10. ~ Veer (Wht.) 8Gb GSM. 2.2.4. ~ HP Omen-15-5206tx. 256Gb SSD. i7-O/C@3.39Ghz. Win10.
  6. #6  
    Yes, check that locking tab. If it is broken, you're SOL. If not, it will be bulging a little when the back cover is on. Give it a firm press to snap it in. When removing the back cover you sort of want to hold that tab in place while you loosen the others, and then shift it. I broke my tab while not being careful. End result: no charging.
    Did you know:

    webOS ran on a Treo 800 during initial development.
  7. #7  
    Also, make sure that there are pins and a coil on the back cover (the coil will be covered by a thin sheet of paper plastic).

    FWIW, the Touchstone coils on the TP and Pre3 are just antennas. They won't register the voltage. The chip on the mainboard has that capability. So a multimeter would be useless (except for checking out resistance or continuity if you cared about that :P ).
    Did you know:

    webOS ran on a Treo 800 during initial development.
  8.    #8  
    Well, Mutoidi nailed it. I knew about the tab close to the charging contacts, but I had thought it was only an alignment tab, not a retaining tab. On my first Go the cover comes off smoothly and never catches on that tab. The tab on the newer Go does snap into the slot, requires a bit more force to do so, and a bit more force to disengage. I'll have to remember to be careful with that.

    I put the new Go's back cover on my other one and the charging coil worked. When I put the new cover back on the new Go, I made sure to seat the tab, and this time it audibly snapped into place. Now the charging works. Learn something new every day, thanks to you guys!

    For the testing I was going to put the back cover on the Touchstone and then check for voltage and amperage across the contacts with it in position. I think that would work. I didn't think testing the coil without the TS would have given me any results. Would what I was going to do have worked? I might try and map out the contacts anyway, now that I have it in my head as something to do.
    Preemptive and Mutoidi like this.
  9. #9  
    Quote Originally Posted by krotech View Post
    Well, Mutoidi nailed it. I knew about the tab close to the charging contacts, but I had thought it was only an alignment tab, not a retaining tab. On my first Go the cover comes off smoothly and never catches on that tab. The tab on the newer Go does snap into the slot, requires a bit more force to do so, and a bit more force to disengage. I'll have to remember to be careful with that.

    I put the new Go's back cover on my other one and the charging coil worked. When I put the new cover back on the new Go, I made sure to seat the tab, and this time it audibly snapped into place. Now the charging works. Learn something new every day, thanks to you guys!

    For the testing I was going to put the back cover on the Touchstone and then check for voltage and amperage across the contacts with it in position. I think that would work. I didn't think testing the coil without the TS would have given me any results. Would what I was going to do have worked? I might try and map out the contacts anyway, now that I have it in my head as something to do.
    Cool! Glad to be of assistance!
    I actually also put a *tiny* smear of Lithium Grease on all my Go (& Pre3) back cover tabs & locating sockets.. this really helps reduce the friction & 'grab' that can easily lead to these brittle little components snapping off like carrots!

    I also think that a multimeter would register the out-putted current/voltage induced into the back cover coils when positioned correctly on the acrive TP Touchdtone, yes.
    The 2nd coil is of course for registerring the 'NFC' ~ and sadly under-developed ~ Touch-to-Share feature.


    TP 32Gb 4G. 3.0.5 / CM10. ~ Pre3 16Gb GSM. 2.2.4. ~ TS2 BT Audio-Dock ~ HP iPaq. hx-2790b.
    TP 32Gb Wifi. 3.0.5 / CM10. ~ Veer (Wht.) 8Gb GSM. 2.2.4. ~ HP Omen-15-5206tx. 256Gb SSD. i7-O/C@3.39Ghz. Win10.
    TJs11thPre likes this.
  10. #10  
    Quote Originally Posted by krotech View Post
    I have a newer (to me) TP Go and I tried to charge it on the Touchstone, and I can't get the charger to register. I took the back cover off my other Go and put it on the new one, and my other cover worked. I guess there's something wrong with the charging coil or the contact placement on the newer Go. The problem is that the back cover that doesn't work has a much larger and more permanent-looking adhesive cover for the charging coil and I don't want to take it off if I don't have to. I sincerely doubt I'll get it to lay down that flat again.

    So -

    1) What can I look for if I take up a multimeter and put the open back cover on the TS charger to test the coil?
    2) Are there any ways to improve the connections between the contacts if the coil does work?
    3) Does anybody here do fixes for this? Or have an extra cover they would part with or trade to fix this one? (Yes, it's a longshot, but I might as well ask.)

    It's a small thing, but I'd like everything to work if I can fix it or get it fixed, and I really like the wireless charging. I'm willing to do a little work to fix it.

    Any help appreciated, as always.
    A few photos of EVT3 cover you are referring to:
    - TouchPad Go EVT3 back cover charging and NFC flex PCB


    - TouchPad Go EVT3 charging and NFC flex PCB close up photo


    - TouchPad Go EVT3 back NFC flex PCB close up


    - TouchPad Go EVT3 back cover charging and NFC flex RF shield sticker back + charging coil


    - TouchPad Go EVT3 back cover charging and NFC flex RF shield sticker front


    DVT covers had a different shield sticker with debosed place for coil.
    At the end it seems that they mixed EVT3 and DVT as many DVT units I have seen had EVT3 covers.
    lemanho likes this.
  11. #11  
    - TouchPad Go EVT3 back cover


    - TouchPad Go DVT back cover
    lemanho and dkirker like this.
  12. #12  
    If the connection between back cover pads and unit are loose or back cover does not sit tight there is always a possibility to position flex PCB pads higher by inserting thicker sticker or carton board or thin PCB (0,5 mm without copper) between the back cover and pads.
    Back cover need to be heated from back and from front by hot air gun, if you don't have it ordinary hair dryer will also suffice.
    Than the part of the sticker should be bent and back cover need to be heated again (longer than before) on the back and front side as flex PCB with pads is sticked by double sided tape which is quite hard to remove. Don't use any sharp tool, or flat screwdriver, beter use something plastic to avoid damaging PCB.
    After that you can fit some filler between back cover and flex PCB and stick it back, 3M double sided tape is great for this job.

    Last edited by Sumy; 01/16/2015 at 04:54 PM.
  13. #13  
    Quote Originally Posted by krotech View Post
    Well, Mutoidi nailed it. I knew about the tab close to the charging contacts, but I had thought it was only an alignment tab, not a retaining tab. On my first Go the cover comes off smoothly and never catches on that tab. The tab on the newer Go does snap into the slot, requires a bit more force to do so, and a bit more force to disengage. I'll have to remember to be careful with that.

    I put the new Go's back cover on my other one and the charging coil worked. When I put the new cover back on the new Go, I made sure to seat the tab, and this time it audibly snapped into place. Now the charging works. Learn something new every day, thanks to you guys!

    For the testing I was going to put the back cover on the Touchstone and then check for voltage and amperage across the contacts with it in position. I think that would work. I didn't think testing the coil without the TS would have given me any results. Would what I was going to do have worked? I might try and map out the contacts anyway, now that I have it in my head as something to do.
    You can check layout on the photos I have posted, so you will see where they are connected (the only missing item is coil which I have removed to have easy access, it is soldered to 2 silver pins)
  14. #14  
    Quote Originally Posted by TJs11thPre View Post
    You might want to find a microelectronics expert, if that's not your bag, baby. (in my best Austin Powers) Someone who thinks Radio Shack is for amateurs.
    Think we may have found one...*looks upward*
    Sporting my 13th Pre device, a NOS unlocked ROW Pre3!
    Remy X likes this.
  15.    #15  
    Quote Originally Posted by TJs11thPre View Post
    Think we may have found one...*looks upward*
    Glad for that!
  16. #16  
    Darn! Wish I had realised I could put something behind the contact a couple years back when mine stopped working... Oh well. I got it hooked up in other ways (basically, the coil is permanently attached). I tried adding solder to the pogo pins (which were also failing; I HATE pogo pins....), but that didn't completely work.

    As for checking the voltage with the coil on a Touchstone: As I mentioned, no, it won't work. The receiver that converts the energy to a good strong current is on the motherboard -- unlike with the original Pre design where it was a little chip right there just off the coil.
    Did you know:

    webOS ran on a Treo 800 during initial development.
  17. #17  
    Quote Originally Posted by dkirker View Post
    Darn! Wish I had realised I could put something behind the contact a couple years back when mine stopped working... Oh well. I got it hooked up in other ways (basically, the coil is permanently attached). I tried adding solder to the pogo pins (which were also failing; I HATE pogo pins....), but that didn't completely work.

    As for checking the voltage with the coil on a Touchstone: As I mentioned, no, it won't work. The receiver that converts the energy to a good strong current is on the motherboard -- unlike with the original Pre design where it was a little chip right there just off the coil.
    Also very good solution, adding wires to connect pads from PCB to pogo pins on the mother board
    On one unit I changed pogo pins as they were popping out, added longer ones, but this is not easy to perform.
  18. #18  
    Quote Originally Posted by dkirker View Post
    I broke my tab while not being careful. End result: no charging.
    @ 'dkirker' ~ If you still have this snapped-tab glitch, you may like to check my recent **repair edit @ #5 above.

    Last edited by Mutoidi; 03/31/2016 at 05:50 PM.

    TP 32Gb 4G. 3.0.5 / CM10. ~ Pre3 16Gb GSM. 2.2.4. ~ TS2 BT Audio-Dock ~ HP iPaq. hx-2790b.
    TP 32Gb Wifi. 3.0.5 / CM10. ~ Veer (Wht.) 8Gb GSM. 2.2.4. ~ HP Omen-15-5206tx. 256Gb SSD. i7-O/C@3.39Ghz. Win10.
    dkirker likes this.
  19. #19  
    Quote Originally Posted by Mutoidi View Post
    @ 'dkirker' ~ If you still have this snapped-tab glitch, you may like to check my recent **repair edit @ #5 above.

    I'll have to post a pic of what my back currently looks like. I ended up removing the coils and then soldering them to the pogo pins. It is weird. haha A part of me wants to undo it all and re-do it properly.
    Did you know:

    webOS ran on a Treo 800 during initial development.
  20. #20  
    Quote Originally Posted by dkirker View Post
    I'll have to post a pic of what my back currently looks like. I ended up removing the coils and then soldering them to the pogo pins. It is weird. haha A part of me wants to undo it all and re-do it properly.
    Right.. so when you now remove your back cover, the coils remain 'with' the device & tethered to the pogo pins?
    I guess it depends whether the re-doing part of you is the same part that loves Go's and eventually gets a rainy afternoon with nothing else to do?
    Look 4ward to seeing your pics first anyway!

    TP 32Gb 4G. 3.0.5 / CM10. ~ Pre3 16Gb GSM. 2.2.4. ~ TS2 BT Audio-Dock ~ HP iPaq. hx-2790b.
    TP 32Gb Wifi. 3.0.5 / CM10. ~ Veer (Wht.) 8Gb GSM. 2.2.4. ~ HP Omen-15-5206tx. 256Gb SSD. i7-O/C@3.39Ghz. Win10.
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