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  1. #421  
    If my router was indeed suffering from the random reboots, typical of the E3000s, then wouldn't those random reboots occur even when I'm not using the TP?
    If my router were to randomly reboot while using either my desktop, laptop (wired or with wifi), or smartphone, then I would say, there's a problem with the router, in addition to the TP related wifi problems.
    However, as I stated before, my router works great with all my devices. Except of course when I boot the TP into webOS. Every time my TP loses wifi signal, it takes every other device currently connected down along with it.
    It's crazy, it's almost like webOS is saying...
    "Ahh, to hell with it, if I'm going down, I'm taking everyone down with me". LOL
    Last edited by RIIXtreme; 02/11/2012 at 03:06 PM.
  2. #422  
    No matter how long you let it sit and ripen it won't turn into an iPad.
    Huh!?
    Wha'cha talkin' 'bout Willis?
    davidtm likes this.
  3. #423  
    Quote Originally Posted by RIIXtreme View Post
    Only thing I haven't tried yet is changing the router's stock firmware..
    You'll have to decide for yourself, but I've been sold on 3rd party firmware for years now. I was researching alternative firmware for an old Netgear router which led me to the Linksys WRT54G and the firmware available for that. So I actually bought my first Linksys router just so I could run 3rd part firmware and my experience with Linksys/Cisco stock firmware is limited since I loaded 3rd party firmware on it the day I bought it, I've used Sveasoft, DD-WRT, OpenWRT but my favorite was HyperWRT which led to Tofu which led to Tomato that I still use. The main feature I wanted initially was assigning static IP addesses via DHCP but these firmwares have historically pushed the feature envelope in many other respects although I'm sure Linksys must have caught up in some ways over the years, but again I don't use it so not sure. There are many other wireless router firmwares availabe, but Tomato is my favorite and DD-WRT is very popular supporting more routers than Tomato does.

    Quote Originally Posted by RIIXtreme View Post
    I think I tried changing some of those settings as well, though not all at the same time.
    Also, I'm not too comfortable relaxing my security settings that much.
    I prefer having WPA2, hide SSID, dynamic DHCP and wifi MAC filter on.

    I figure since you can't ever make your wifi signal hack-proof, I'll at least make difficult. LOL
    From what I've read, AES encryption with a decent dictionary attack proof password is really the key to home user security. So I use WPA with AES encryption. IIRC WPA didn't originally have AES, this was introduced in WPA2 then backfilled to WPA. I find WPA with AES is secure and I have better all around compatibility with WPA. I used to use MAC filters and hide my SSID. But from what I've read, even a casual hacker equipped with tools easily downloaded from the Internet can get around those, so now I just rely on WPA/AES. MAC filtering is just going to add workload to my router, and hiding the SSID will just cause compatibility issues with some devices - by the way I've read the Touchpad is known to have issues with hidden SSIDs.

    Quote Originally Posted by RIIXtreme View Post
    So it looks like I'm the only one with that particular problem.
    I figure since, my wifi signal is great under CM9, I'm not going to mess with it anymore. At least for now.
    It's too bad because I do like using webOS, but without a proper wifi signal, and the fact that it affects my other devices, it's just not worth it.

    Clearly, it's not the router's fault, but rather a software related issue, specific to webOS.
    That wireless isn't perfect and there are quirks to different vendor chipsets and drivers isn't a fault of any router. But a router can quite possibly adapt to accommodate with the plethora of settings available on newer routers and 3rd party firmware.
  4. #424  
    A "random" reboot would explain lost of connectivity to all clients for sure. I will say that my Tomato powered E3000 has never had that issue, just checked and it's been up 52 days, 09:48:34 and would be longer except I rebooted it myself while trouble shooting an issue that turned out not to be related to the E3000. It constantly supports a wired desktop, a NAS and a laptop, and wirelessly a WII, PS3, 3 laptops, two touchpads, an iPad and 4 WDS connected remote routers with multiple printers, DVRs, a desktop, etc connected to them with no significant problems.
  5. #425  
    @Texasflood

    UPDATE: My wifi seems to have improved. It stills drops and brings everything down with it. But it's no longer doing it every few minutes like before.

    Last night I temporarily changed some of the settings to try my luck once again.
    This time I had;
    SSID visible
    Disabled Wifi MAC ID
    Changed my 2.4GHz signal Security to WPA (instead of WPA2)
    I also changed the values from "advanced settings". I actually changed those a long time ago.
    Also, two days ago, I tried installing the "fix my wifi" patch on preware.
    It didn't seem to make a difference so I removed it.

    After a while, I began to re-enable the settings to the way I had them before, except for the wifi MAC security. It's still disabled.

    Despite re-enabling the previous settings, the wifi drops have been reduced significantly.
    Interestingly enough, even though I changed the 2.4GHz security to WPA, the TP seems to prefer connecting to my 5GHz (WPA2) signal instead. I then changed the security setting of the 2.4 signal back to WPA2 and it did not make a difference.
    The TP used to prefer the 2.4 signal (despite the constant drops) and had difficulty even finding the 5GHz signal.
    Now, when it drops, it looks for the 5GHz and reconnects to it. Occasionally, it selects the 2.4 signal, but mostly prefers the 5G signal now.

    To to recap, I momentarily changed settings and the signal drop was significantly reduced.
    I then changed everything back to the way I had it (except for wifi MAC filter, I left it disabled), and is still good.

    It stills drops, especially when loading web pages, flash videos, etc.
    But not every few minutes like before.


    Thanks for the links to the 3rd party firmwares.
    I guess eventually I'll have to mess around with it to see if it can improve the wifi signal further.
  6. #426  
    Don't understand it, sometimes such things defy explanation. Mine only links to the 2.4GHz since it's the only profile I have defined with password. I find the 5GHz problematic due to limited penetration/range in the house vs the 20MHz 2.4GHz. But glad things are looking up RIIXtreme, Good luck...
  7. #427  
    Quote Originally Posted by RIIXtreme View Post
    @Texasflood

    UPDATE: My wifi seems to have improved. It stills drops and brings everything down with it. But it's no longer doing it every few minutes like before.

    Last night I temporarily changed some of the settings to try my luck once again.
    This time I had;
    SSID visible
    Disabled Wifi MAC ID
    Changed my 2.4GHz signal Security to WPA (instead of WPA2)
    I also changed the values from "advanced settings". I actually changed those a long time ago.
    Also, two days ago, I tried installing the "fix my wifi" patch on preware.
    It didn't seem to make a difference so I removed it.

    After a while, I began to re-enable the settings to the way I had them before, except for the wifi MAC security. It's still disabled.

    Despite re-enabling the previous settings, the wifi drops have been reduced significantly.
    Interestingly enough, even though I changed the 2.4GHz security to WPA, the TP seems to prefer connecting to my 5GHz (WPA2) signal instead. I then changed the security setting of the 2.4 signal back to WPA2 and it did not make a difference.
    The TP used to prefer the 2.4 signal (despite the constant drops) and had difficulty even finding the 5GHz signal.
    Now, when it drops, it looks for the 5GHz and reconnects to it. Occasionally, it selects the 2.4 signal, but mostly prefers the 5G signal now.

    To to recap, I momentarily changed settings and the signal drop was significantly reduced.
    I then changed everything back to the way I had it (except for wifi MAC filter, I left it disabled), and is still good.

    It stills drops, especially when loading web pages, flash videos, etc.
    But not every few minutes like before.


    Thanks for the links to the 3rd party firmwares.
    I guess eventually I'll have to mess around with it to see if it can improve the wifi signal further.
    I thought of something. It's a little far fetched because there's a 1 in a billion chance of this happening. But look at your mac filter list and see if there's 2 devices with the same MAC. It's extremely rare but it could happen. Let us know.
  8. #428  
    Hi guys,

    My problem is also WiFi related, but I'm stuck on the config screen and I can't connect!


    It’s my third day with HP touchpad.
    First it was working fine on 4 WiFi networks in my office (WEP, WPA, open)
    After coming back home, it started to drop connection and finally stopped connecting.
    I have decided to go for a full factory reset (it was only my second day).
    Now I’m stuck on Searching for networks on the setup screen.

    After going to HP webOS -> Diagnostics -> Automated test suite – touchpad is showing Memory and Bluetooth tests, but not WiFi
    Yesterday it was there!
    I was scanning the net and it seems that plenty of users have this problem. Can you advise?


    The device was bought second hand, it's not brand new.
    I have followed all the steps in the official troubleshooting guide, no luck.
    TP was working great on the same networks that it can't see now...

    I have also reloaded webOS with webOS Doctor, nothing changed (3.0.5)

    So at this moment:

    I'm stuck on the config process.
    Can't accept the license because my TP is searching for WiFi and it can't find any.
    Automated Test Suite can't see WiFi element to test, and before the the system restore it was showing Error 1000, which apparently means Wi-Fi is disabeled or off.
    Can I somehow enable it / disable at the process of setting it up?
  9. #429  
    FYI, one more reason to use 3rd party firmware like I mentioned above, any router with WPS Wi-Fi Protected Setup) is potentially vulnerable to a WiFi Protected Setup (WPS) PIN brute force vulnerability attack. Some routers allow turning it off to defeat an attack. Some routers are vulnerable even when turned off in the router GUI menu as it isn't really disabled. 3rd party firmware like DD-WRT and Tomato are an option if the router vendor hasn't addressed the issue yet. The SmallNetBuilder article "Waiting For The WPS Fix" has info about the various vendor responses.
  10. djinlondon's Avatar
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    #430  
    Quote Originally Posted by brandonmarkb View Post
    Oh man, I had my Touchpad working just fine since August, until yesterday. I got the new e4200v2 and now my touchpad has this problem. I was on the WRT610Nv1 before.

    The downside of the E4200v2 is that it now uses a Marvell chipset, so I'm stuck with the stock firmware since DD-WRT and Tomato require Broadcom. I'm going to play around with the few settings I can change and see if it makes a difference. If I figure something out, I'll post here.
    I picked up the same router last week. Started have the exact same problem. I'll start with the Preware wifi patch first before mucking with the router settings. Also, it looks like it can't connect to N, although I haven't done much investigate on this yet.

    CM9 doesn't appear to have a problem. I was getting reasonably decent wifi using a D-Link DGL-4300 (but it was only B/G single band).
  11. djinlondon's Avatar
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    #431  
    Quote Originally Posted by djinlondon View Post
    I picked up the same router last week. Started have the exact same problem. I'll start with the Preware wifi patch first before mucking with the router settings. Also, it looks like it can't connect to N, although I haven't done much investigate on this yet.

    CM9 doesn't appear to have a problem. I was getting reasonably decent wifi using a D-Link DGL-4300 (but it was only B/G single band).
    As an update, the Preware patch made no difference. Also, my wife reported her TP was exhibiting the same symptoms (her's is stock, no CM, no Preware). So, I modified some router settings:
    - split the dual band into separate SSIDs (both WPA2) with unique names. By default the router sets these up with the same name.
    - changed the beacon, RTS, and fragmentation settings as described previously in this post.

    What I have noticed is if the TP is connected to the 2.4Ghz SSID it will consistently drop the connection (without any visual cue) even during mid-use, not just during idle. If I'm connected to the 5Ghz band SSID, the TP stays connected. Also, in my previous post I didn't think CM9 was having this problem. I was wrong. Booted up into CM9 last week and the problem exists there as well!
  12. #432  
    I finally decided to install DD-WRT FW on my E3000 router today.
    I'm happy to report that my TP wifi issues are finally solved.

    None of the other suggestions worked for me. Only the FW worked.
  13. #433  
    Quote Originally Posted by RIIXtreme View Post
    I finally decided to install DD-WRT FW on my E3000 router today.
    I'm happy to report that my TP wifi issues are finally solved.

    None of the other suggestions worked for me. Only the FW worked.
    Good move, , I've had Linksys broadcom routers for years now and the first thing I always do is ditch the Linksys firmware. I'd decided to do so before I ever bought my first Linksys. So guess I never gave The OEM firmware a chance but don't regret it. I prefer Tomato myself but used DD-WRT before Tomato existed and know it's good stuff as well which supports more hardware.
  14. #434  
    Quote Originally Posted by texasflood View Post
    Good move, , I've had Linksys broadcom routers for years now and the first thing I always do is ditch the Linksys firmware. I'd decided to do so before I ever bought my first Linksys. So guess I never gave The OEM firmware a chance but don't regret it. I prefer Tomato myself but used DD-WRT before Tomato existed and know it's good stuff as well which supports more hardware.
    Yeah, if it wasn't for the TP, I probably would have left it alone.
    The TP with webOS was the only thing causing problems.
    Ever since I installed CM9, I practically stopped booting into webOS because of the constant wifi issues.

    WebOS wifi is rock solid now on both the 2.4 and 5GHz signals.

    So what are the main differences between Tomato and DD-WRT?
    Now I just have to figure out what all these extra settings are for?
  15. #435  
    Quote Originally Posted by RIIXtreme View Post
    Yeah, if it wasn't for the TP, I probably would have left it alone.
    The TP with webOS was the only thing causing problems.
    Ever since I installed CM9, I practically stopped booting into webOS because of the constant wifi issues.

    WebOS wifi is rock solid now on both the 2.4 and 5GHz signals.

    So what are the main differences between Tomato and DD-WRT?
    Now I just have to figure out what all these extra settings are for?
    Tomato, my favorite wireless router firmware project is known for it's straightforward relatively simple ajax user interface, SVG-based graphical bandwidth monitor and excellent QOS. Historically it had a relatively controlled feature set, fewer releases and good stability. Newer modifications for newer hardware have a somewhat expanded feature set, see TomatoUSB and the variations of TomatoUSB, I use Toastmans now. It's important to read the compatibility notes, such as these for TomatoUSB and the text files included in the Toastman build directories. DD-WRT supports more routers with more features than any other firmware to my knowledge. It's important to read the announcements at the top of the DD-WRT Broadcom forum and the DD-WRT Wiki for the recommended stable version and flashing instructions for your router. You can compare features for yourself by looking at the detailed feature set lists in the links included above in this post.
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    #436  
    Don't know if anyone else has reported this quirk in the issue, but when my TP has dropped connection, it churns through battery like nobody's businesss. In some cases, I'l lose a few % battery in nothing more than a few minutes.

    After a whole whack of experirmenting, I found if I try to connect my BlackBerry to the same Wifi, my TP will instantly fix it's connection issue and allow browsing for a few mintues... just by getting my Berry to try and connect to the WiFi... but it's an intermittent fix. That lasts about 3 or 4 minutes then the TP is back to dropping signals. I turn my Berry's wifi off then on, Tp regains connection.

    Weirdest thing I've ever seen.
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    #437  
    mine connects fine to my router at home, but when I try to connect to an open network at a public place, it wont work. if tried the preware patch to no avail. any suggestions are appreciated
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    #438  
    I've never had an issue connecting at home to my D-Link DIR-855 (plugged-in to my FIOS router) using 2.4 GHz. I use "no-broadcast SSID" and WPA w/ TKIP. It won't connect to the 5 GHz side (different SSID), though I haven't taken the time to "make it" do so. On many other networks I've tried, including at work, friends, and vacation spots, it forces me to enter an IP address that should auto-assign. I'll "fudge in" something like 192.168.1.29. Sometimes that works, though even then it may connect to the network but not to the Internet. That's what happens at work on the Cisco/Linksys WAP610N. I just tried the suggestion someone made here to use DNS 8.8.8.8. It worked! Now I can use the Internet at work.

    Ultimately, the CORE ISSUE for me is not being able to rely on connecting in hotels, B&B's and such when traveling. I've been lugging a 10-year-old laptop for this reason alone. What a pain. Now maybe I'll try leaving it home, though that "password page" in hotels might still be an issue. THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP EVERYONE!
  19. djinlondon's Avatar
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    #439  
    Changed my router to use WPA Personal (TKIP) and this has fixed my connection issues. On my Linksys e4200v2, using WPA2 Personal (AES) or WPA/WPA2 Mixed Mode, was flaky at best.
  20. #440  
    Quote Originally Posted by djinlondon View Post
    Changed my router to use WPA Personal (TKIP) and this has fixed my connection issues. On my Linksys e4200v2, using WPA2 Personal (AES) or WPA/WPA2 Mixed Mode, was flaky at best.
    Interesting. I've had serious problems with intermittent connectivity using TKIP on Linksys routers with WPA but with 3rd party firmware. WPA/AES has been reliable for me, again on 3rd party firmware, since it's been available. Guess it's worth trying a couple of settings to see what works best for you, and your firmware.

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