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  1. #381  
    Quote Originally Posted by daylater View Post
    I had severe connection dropping issues with my TP(and only my TP) with my Dlink dir-655.

    Changed my Beacon interval to - 75
    changed my RTS threshold to - 2304
    changed my fragmentation threshold to - 2304

    Haven't had a single issue since! (Knock on wood)
    I have the same router and intermittent disconnects. Why did you choose these values?
  2. #382  
    Quote Originally Posted by daylater View Post
    I had severe connection dropping issues with my TP(and only my TP) with my Dlink dir-655.

    Changed my Beacon interval to - 75
    changed my RTS threshold to - 2304
    changed my fragmentation threshold to - 2304

    Haven't had a single issue since! (Knock on wood)
    this seems to be working for me

    Many thanks
  3. spud101's Avatar
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    #383  
    I've changed these settings too, but too early to say whether it's helping.

    Update:

    I had similar issues. I have a different router, some cheapass Sitecom N router. After 2 days with these new settings I haven't had any issues so far. So I'm starting to hope that this really fixed it.
    Last edited by spud101; 12/06/2011 at 02:43 AM.
  4. #384  
    My TP connected with Wifi out of the box on day 1. Everything worked fine that first week, and I installed the Cyanogenmod Android OS. Last night, after a week of playing with the TP, I rebooted my computer and lost Wifi.

    I started with easy fixes mentioned in this thread first.
    Change Wifi channel: no good.

    Then there's this from Furiously back in September:

    Quote Originally Posted by Furiously View Post
    Then it hit me - perhaps its something stupid where the passphrase isn't being handled correctly, and perhaps the TP doesn't work correct with characters after F?
    BINGO. WPA now works, WPA2 still wont connect though
    My normal passphrase has the majority of characters above F, with one Y in it.
    If I set the passphrase on the guest SSID to "a1b2c3e4f5", all of a sudden, I can connect.
    Weirdly enough, it works (at least for now). If I felt like breaking my Wifi and experimenting again, it might be worth checking to see if ANY passphrase change will restore connectivity or if indeed it is because the TP has trouble with certain characters. However, I don't feel like breaking the Wifi connection. Maybe another day, we'll see.

    Also interesting to note, the TP failed to connect in both webOS and Android. The Android Wifi settings are a bit more verbose than the webOS's and I could watch the TP ping and negotiate, negotiate, fail. Ping again and negotiate, negotiate, and fail. Ping again, etc... draining the battery.

    Oh yeah: 32gb TP. webOS 3.0.4. CM Android alpha 3. Vista Home Premium. AT&T 2Wire router.
    Last edited by Metahec; 12/09/2011 at 06:55 AM. Reason: forgot to add my system's vitals
  5. #385  
    Quote Originally Posted by daylater View Post
    I had severe connection dropping issues with my TP(and only my TP) with my Dlink dir-655.

    Changed my Beacon interval to - 75
    changed my RTS threshold to - 2304
    changed my fragmentation threshold to - 2304

    Haven't had a single issue since! (Knock on wood)
    I've modified the settings on the DIR-655 to see if this stops the drop-outs , but I'd be grateful for anyone that can expand on what these changes do in functionality terms.

    The default settings are:

    Beacon interval - 100
    RTS threshold - 2346
    fragmentation threshold - 2346

    The Support page offers the following information:

    Transmit Power
    Normally the wireless transmitter operates at 100% power. In some circumstances, however, there might be a need to isolate specific frequencies to a smaller area. By reducing the power of the radio, you can prevent transmissions from reaching beyond your corporate/home office or designated wireless area.

    Beacon Period
    Beacons are packets sent by a wireless router to synchronize wireless devices. Specify a Beacon Period value between 20 and 1000. The default value is set to 100 milliseconds.

    RTS Threshold
    When an excessive number of wireless packet collisions are occurring, wireless performance can be improved by using the RTS/CTS (Request to Send/Clear to Send) handshake protocol. The wireless transmitter will begin to send RTS frames (and wait for CTS) when data frame size in bytes is greater than the RTS Threshold. This setting should remain at its default value of 2346 bytes.

    Fragmentation Threshold
    Wireless frames can be divided into smaller units (fragments) to improve performance in the presence of RF interference and at the limits of RF coverage. Fragmentation will occur when frame size in bytes is greater than the Fragmentation Threshold. This setting should remain at its default value of 2346 bytes. Setting the Fragmentation value too low may result in poor performance.

    DTIM Interval
    A DTIM is a countdown informing clients of the next window for listening to broadcast and multicast messages. When the wireless router has buffered broadcast or multicast messages for associated clients, it sends the next DTIM with a DTIM Interval value. Wireless clients detect the beacons and awaken to receive the broadcast and multicast messages. The default value is 1. Valid settings are between 1 and 255.
  6. #386  
    I have a D-Link Dir-655 and two HP Touchpads. My 32 GB Touchpad apparently has no WiFi issues, but my wife's 16 GB TP just recently started having Wifi issues. AFter going to sleep when she starts it again the email client fails to connect, she can browse, but search does not work, the WiFi connection is intermittent. I should mention that the 32 TP has all the Precentral patches and CPU running at 1.5 GHz, but the 16 GB TP is basically stock. So the problem cannot be patch related.
  7. #387  
    Quote Originally Posted by daylater View Post
    I had severe connection dropping issues with my TP(and only my TP) with my Dlink dir-655.

    Changed my Beacon interval to - 75
    changed my RTS threshold to - 2304
    changed my fragmentation threshold to - 2304

    Haven't had a single issue since! (Knock on wood)
    I modified my E3000 2.4GHz 802.11N radio to these values and after a little time I am pretty sure this has helped me. I haven't really noticed the touchpad radio "falling asleep" which was happening before - not all the time but enough to notice. I still have rare connection problems, probably mostly when out of range. I've probably read this same advice in the past but it's hard to remember all these settings, thanks!
  8. #388  
    Quote Originally Posted by daylater View Post
    I had severe connection dropping issues with my TP(and only my TP) with my Dlink dir-655.

    Changed my Beacon interval to - 75
    changed my RTS threshold to - 2304
    changed my fragmentation threshold to - 2304

    Haven't had a single issue since! (Knock on wood)

    I also have the Dlink 655 router and made these changes. Now it's been working 3 straight days. Nice fix thanks
  9. spud101's Avatar
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    #389  
    After more than a week on these settings it stays connected perfectly to my wifi network. This is so great!!! It even feels like that network performance has improved slightly! This is so great!!!
  10. #390  
    Quote Originally Posted by daylater View Post
    I had severe connection dropping issues with my TP(and only my TP) with my Dlink dir-655.

    Changed my Beacon interval to - 75
    changed my RTS threshold to - 2304
    changed my fragmentation threshold to - 2304

    Haven't had a single issue since! (Knock on wood)
    I used these settings too and it's been great for a week. I have Dlink dir-615. Thanks!
  11. #391  
    I'm not sure if this should belong to the Wifi thread (please merge if it is) but im pretty frustrated right now due to a failed transaction

    (was gonna trade the touchpad + cash for an asus transformer) and I couldnt setup his webos account when we met up.

    I was dual booting CM7 alpha 3.5 and webOS and did factory resets on both

    CM7 is working fine after the reset with wifi and all but webOS simply goes "Cannot connect through this connection" through my home wifi, my pocket myfi device and my android phone tethering.

    The wifi icon does connect and turn white but it displays that message and I cannot continue further.

    Any suggestions on fixing it?
  12. pchrist's Avatar
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    #392  
    Quote Originally Posted by donquijote56 View Post
    I have a D-Link Dir-655 and two HP Touchpads. My 32 GB Touchpad apparently has no WiFi issues, but my wife's 16 GB TP just recently started having Wifi issues. AFter going to sleep when she starts it again the email client fails to connect, she can browse, but search does not work, the WiFi connection is intermittent. I should mention that the 32 TP has all the Precentral patches and CPU running at 1.5 GHz, but the 16 GB TP is basically stock. So the problem cannot be patch related.
    I have the exact same thing going on!!!!!! I can't get the second one to connect at all
    I just changed the router settings to see if that will help. I have the dlink 655 router
  13. #393  
    I have two TP and 7 other WIFI enable devices in my home. The TP 's were the only devices having dropped connections in N mode. I confirmed no other wifi channel conflicts prior to making these changes. Still using same channel after making changes.

    Changed my Beacon interval to - 75
    changed my RTS threshold to - 2304
    changed my fragmentation threshold to - 2304

    No more dropped connections on my Dlink DIR-628 router.
    Last edited by gaphono; 01/15/2012 at 07:52 AM. Reason: More Info
  14. #394  
    Quote Originally Posted by blake711 View Post
    I made a post almost a month ago 11-5 about flashing my linksys to dd-wrt. Since I did that I have no had a single connection issue with my TP.
    Over 2 months since flashing my router to DD-WRT haven't booted the router once and not a single time have I had connection issues since flashing it.
  15. #395  
    The cause appears to be interference from other networks or devices. The hp/palm implementation of wifi seems to have a harder time dealing with it than other devices.

    The suggested fix helps fight against interference. I solved my issue by changing from the standard channel to a different one (2 TPs + pre3).

    Most people use the default channel, and almost everyone now has a wifi network at home. So there are lots of people fighting their neighbors signals. That's why changing the router or firmware will work sometimes work; if the new router uses a different channel by default.

    Those of you who solved the problem by changing routers or installing a different firmware, it would be interesting to see if the new router/firmware uses a different channel than the old router/firmware. This would help determine the cause.

    Yes, there are other fixes that have worked, probably because those problems were caused by something other than interference.
  16. #396  
    Ok so from the word go i've had WIFI issues with this thing.. 20 Pages of this thread hasnít really given me anything clear to do. Lots of try this or this worked for me scenarios but nothing concrete. (it is CRAZY awesome that there was this much to read and relate to BUT no so cool that im still broke)

    My Issue specifically - Initially unable to complete out of box setup b/c of no networks being found. Addressed this by taking it to work and doing it there. Once on Wi-Fi i was able to turn Wi-Fi ON and OFF a thousand times until it finally connected to my home Wi-Fi. Once connected, it stays connected - If i reboot the TP i have a hell of a time getting it connected again. Sometimes it takes 5 mins of cycling the Wi-Fi, sometimes it takes multiple reboots of the TP and sometimes i have to run that command to remove wifi settings "# rm -rf /data/misc/wifi && reboot" . All in all Iíve NEVER experienced a connectiviy issue so unexplainable and unpredictable.

    The only solution that i have verified (so far) to work on a regular basis is to run the command mentioned above.

    Im fairly decent with this technology stuff ( do it for a living ) and it pains me to say this but im just beaten and im now willing to go buy another router even though mine is less than 1 year old, has not once had an issue and i actually really think its a fantastic router.. Im just out of options and energy for that matter...


    so anyway, here are a few of my hardware and setup specifics-

    Stock Touchpad first w/ JUST webOS then with cyanogenmod 7 (experienced same issues in both configurations)
    Asus RT-n16 - Initially w/ Tomato, then flashed back to stock b/c of this, then flashed again to dd-wrt.
    Tried individually and when applicable combinations of:
    Open, wep, wpa, wpa2
    Channels 1-13 (best low channel is 1, best high is 13- using 1
    10mhz, 20mhz, 40mhz and Auto
    broadcast and hidden SSID
    changed the Wi-Fi Policy to Never Sleep (on the TP)
    Static IP setting (on the TP)
    Change the device name (on the tp but cant remember where i did this) to less than 12 characters.


    Im by no means a code writer, but on the surface this really looks like a driver issue. Theres something buggy in the way the TP handles Wireless connections, drops, scanning etc.. I only think this b/c running that command seems to reset everything and thats when it works. That sounds like a software/settings Caching issue to me..

    I dont know.. I guess ill just throw more money at it...

    oh and FWIW:
    Asus TF Prime, 2 Iphones, 1 Ipod, 1 Coby TP and 2 Laptops - not a single connectivy problem with any of them in ANY router configuration..
  17. #397  
    Quote Originally Posted by stussy2870 View Post
    Ok so from the word go i've had WIFI issues with this thing.. 20 Pages of this thread hasnít really given me anything clear to do. Lots of try this or this worked for me scenarios but nothing concrete. (it is CRAZY awesome that there was this much to read and relate to BUT no so cool that im still broke)

    *snip*

    I dont know.. I guess ill just throw more money at it...

    oh and FWIW:
    Asus TF Prime, 2 Iphones, 1 Ipod, 1 Coby TP and 2 Laptops - not a single connectivy problem with any of them in ANY router configuration..
    In the same boat. Also am a Network Engineer by day. Been following this thread for months. Strongly feel this is a driver issue and refuse to replace my TrendNet TEW-633GR router when I have the following connected to it and working just fine:

    Wireless:
    1 Sony PlayStation 3
    1 Shuttle HTPC (using TrendNet wi-fi card)
    1 Dell Studio 17 laptop with integrated Dell Wireless-N card
    1 Roku XR
    1 iPod Touch (2nd gen)
    2 LG Optimus S cell phones
    6 D-Link DCS-930L Wireless-N cameras

    Wired:
    1 Home-built tower PC with Intel Gigabit NIC
    1 Synology DS-211+ NAS
    1 HP LaserJet P2015dn printer
  18. DizWhiz's Avatar
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    #398  
    Quote Originally Posted by nsfdheo View Post
    I also have the Dlink 655 router and made these changes. Now it's been working 3 straight days. Nice fix thanks
    I just changed mine to these settings fingers crossed it helps stop the "wifi timeout after wake" thing I've had going on.
  19. #399  
    Quote Originally Posted by TigerDave99 View Post
    In the same boat. Also am a Network Engineer by day. Been following this thread for months. Strongly feel this is a driver issue and refuse to replace my TrendNet TEW-633GR router when I have the following connected to it and working just fine:

    Wireless:
    1 Sony PlayStation 3

    LOL- I forgot about my PS3 and My Wii...
    I was able to grab a LinksysE1200 today from work (to test with)... Ill see what i can find out and post the results tomorrow..
  20. #400  
    No dice on the testing, still the same behavior. Im sending it back to HP for repair. They sent me a box about a week ago when i first called in.

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